Hello everyone!

JimmyJangle here

I've been researching an issue that's occurred a couple times for me.
This is what happens: Car doesn't start, gauges bounce and hear clicking noise
from starter solenoid. If I have someone jump start my car (I just go straight to the battery in the back) then it starts up and I go about my day :P

This happened a few months ago and I had the battery tested and alternator and everything looked fine. Took it to two different auto parts stores. 90-100% state of charge.

This afternoon is had a slow/sluggish start so I took it to auto parts store to check the codes. Came up with a P1682 IGNITION SWITCH code. Also I have P0102 and P0113 but I'm not sure if those are related. After they checked the codes I tried to start my car and it wouldn't crank. Same issue, clicking and bouncing gauges. They were kind enough to jump me and it started up first try.

Then they checked my battery and alternator and everything still looked fine, lol.

So they figured it was a problem with the starter itself. I've looked around the forums. First I thought maybe it was the ignition switch but those issues are more concerned with the ignition getting stuck in place. So I'm not sure about the ignition switch being the issue, although it likely could be. I've seen a few threads where people were left stranded because of the ignition switch, so I've always kept my key chain light.

My current theory is that the starter is going out and when you jump start it with another car then it gives you a bunch of juice and forces the starter or something. Obviously I have no idea what I'm talking about.

Any ideas would be great, I was thinking of just replacing the ignition switch and the starter because they aren't too expensive really and fairly simply to replace.

Thanks!

 

If the code says the ignition switch is bad why are messing around with anything else?

P1682 CHEVROLET Ignition 1 Switch Circuit 2 | AutoCodes

This article never mentions the starter.

 

I'll bet your battery is bad. Not sure why they would say it shows good.
Hooking up jumper cables doesn't give it "extra boost" or voltage.

 

I'm thinking battery

 

I'm thinking dead cell in battery! Been there, similar codes, replaced battery, no more codes

 

Ya, that's why I thought it was the ignition switch initially because of the code but the behavior of the car is throwing me off.



This is printout from a few months ago when it did it the first time. Maybe there's something there that I'm missing. I didn't get a print out today but it was similar readings. I think it showed around 14.4V while the car was running.

That sounds promising. I've definitely seen this with lithium ion batteries before, but never heard of it happening on lead-acid batteries

I suppose I'll go ahead and replace the ignition switch and replace the battery instead of the starter.

 

Did that make sense to you when you typed it?

If there is an intermittent problem with the IGNITION, wouldn't you think a random IGNITION misfire might occur?

The computer does not just make up codes, it gets signals that it uses to diagnose problems.

Please read the link I provided earlier.

 

I read it, that doesn't mean it makes a whole lot of sense to me

Well, I'm following your suggestion to replace the ignition switch. Is that bad idea? good idea? Kinda confused by your reply.

 

A test showing 14.4 volts while it was running only means your alternator is working. If your battery is showing 481 cranking amps, when it is rated for 600, indicates your battery capability of pumping out power (amps) is less than optimum. Ie: it is approximately 20% down in the power (amps) it can provide.

Giving it a boost, won't necessarily give more voltage, but it will supply more amps, which is needed for the heavy draw items, such as the starter.

Me? I'd replace the battery first, since it seems it is due for replacement anyways - and if the problem continues, then change out the ignition switch.

 

Thank you so much everyone. I love this community <3