Battery charge 12.74 volts, too low!
State of health 80% not good at all!
Now that ignition switch code, it does warrant changing out the ignition switch, but codes can be set by related conditions, like a low or dying battery, we've also seen loose ground wires cause wonky problems!!
Do the battery first, with a good quality battery, then be ready to change that ignition switch

 

12.74 Volt reading - it depends on what the conditions were when it was being tested (that wasn't too clear) - if that was a static reading (everything turned off, engine not running - battery not charging) that indicates to me the voltage is ok. But voltage is one thing, the capability of producing the proper amount of amps is another.

 

What is confusing?

P1682 Possible causes
- Faulty ignition switch
- Ignition Switch harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Switch circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)

It might be a wire it might be the switch.

In all of your research did you come across the switch recall

THIS IS A LINK:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gm-r...updated-49640/

To check your cars recall status:

THIS IS A LINK:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/gm-r...-status-50716/

To get an Owner Manual, follow the link in my sig.

 

Based on the 1st post that you can jump start it, tells me you have a battery or battery connection issue. Try a new battery or at the least check and clean the battery cable connections.

As far as the code you are getting, that could be a false code caused by low voltage.

Can't see why you think the ignition switch. If it jump starts right away then I would think the switch is OK. Regardless of the code.

 

X - 2

And buy a Quality Battery. Not a place to cut corners.

If you install it yourself make sure you follow the proper procedure.

If that does not solve the problem Contact Chevrolet.

The ignition switch problems should be financially covered by them and it is in 2 parts.
Call your local GM dealer and give them your Vin Number so they can check if there has been an earlier replacement.
Ask if they would charge you to check the switch issue out in case it turns out not to be the problem before proceeding.

If you still have issues, come back here to the Forum with the remaining symptoms.

SF

 

FMG asked:"Can't see why you think the ignition switch"

Because that's what P1682 says is the problem.

 

X10 on BATTERY. Do not over complicate things!

 

Hey everyone!

So I replaced the battery and I gotta say.... This car runs so much better!
I've only owned the car for about 4 or 5 months and it didn't come with any repair records so I've been chasing several things down for awhile now.

First of all, haven't had any start up issues, but an unexpected outcome is that the car just runs smoother and shifts gears cleaner. I've had this odd issue where when I down shift (it's a 5-speed manual) the car would complain and jerk/buck like there was too much back pressure. Also did that a lot just giving light acceleration in lower gears going through stop and go traffic. Thought the catalytic converter was clogging up and was looking into that. I replaced the battery (put a bigger 795CCA one in) and that issue was resolved!

I've tried wrapping my head around it. Thought maybe disconnecting the battery might have reset the ECM but I've disconnected the battery before doing other repairs and nothing changed at those times. Also the time in which it was disconnected wasn't longer then other times it's been disconnected.

I guess it could be voltage irregularities or drops but I'm not an expert. Maybe someone here has any ideas.

Thanks everyone! <3

 

Glad to hear it's resolved.

The last couple of years here on the forum, we have seen a fair number of battery failures. In days of old, when the battery was on it's last legs, it was pretty obvious as typically the engine when started, would turn over slower than normal. Or the headlights were dim without the engine running. With the cars of today, with all the dependence on computer controls and monitoring built into them, the clues are sometimes obscure, and kinda freaky (gauges jumping all over the place, warning lights flashing). I'd much rather have a display available showing Voltage/amperage than a readout for the outside temperature - Hey GM......... how about an early warning system for falling voltages like in the "olden days"?

 

Apparently the BCM will thru wonky codes to give a heads up to start chasing rainbows and throw parts at it, and money!
I hope the ignition switch code stays off now, but do get the codes checked even if there isn't a CEL in a week or two, just to be sure