I think he did, but not absolutely sure

 

Yes, I have swapped the plugs, coil packs, and injectors more than once.

I wished I had started a different thread. I have changed the subject too many times on this one, thinking this or that. My only single issue now is dead #3 cylinder. Not cams, timing chain or anything else.

What I have done since I last updated,,,,,

I ohmed the pink pink/black wires from the injector to the first major plug of the harness. Both had good continuity, even when I wiggled the hell out of the harness all over. So I think the harness in question is ok. I put a dab of dielectric grease on all the contacts and rechecked for snugness. If I wish to trace it all the way from the injector to the ECM, that is going to be very convoluted, but I will tomorrow unless I run across anything else.

I did however, remove each major connector off the ECM, visually inspect the pins, and snugged it all back together in case I had a poor connection.

Cleared codes, but no go. Still not hitting #3.

I then came up with an idea. My compression tester hoses were the same fitting as my air hose. I brought #3 up to its TDC, verified it, then injected air into it, about 90 PSI. I know that’s not a lot of air, but it was just a test. I had no leaks and it held air well for about 5 minutes. It was a poor mans leak detector. Maybe my compressor isn’t up to snuff.

Anyway, that is all I have done today.

Weird problem, huh?

 

I took a small led light that I use for repairing ham radios and inserted it into the connector of the number 3 injector. (Made a poor mans noid). The light pulses fine when I crank the engine over, so the injector is getting signal from the ECM (at least during crank). I do not think that is what is it.

I split the under hood fuse box, cleaned all the connections, applied a dab of electric grease and reassembled. Made no change but I did not expect it to, I was just grasping at straws.

So today I am pushing the car out to the yard and giving up on it until I ever feel groggy again. if anyone find this thread down the road and has any advice, here is in summary.

I have a dead #3 cylinder, with a P0303 code, also get the trac light and ABS light immediately. I can unplug the coil pack on each cylinder while the engine is running and it slugs the engine down badly except on #3, no change.(ABS code says right front wheel sensor).

I have moved the plug, coil pack, and injector around many times. the problem remains on #3.

Compression test done several times yields around 150 PSI warm across all 4. Tested many times.

Spark plugs all clean and burning even, even dead’s cylinder is not fuel fouled but a good grayish color.

I have checked the injector signal and reference voltage, it is getting both.

I have visually watched for spark while it is running. Has constant spark.

I have had a valve job done less than 100 miles on it.

I replaced both the timing and balance chain, and water pump while head was off.

At first, the car ran pretty good for awhile, then started running rough and popped the p0303 code. I could clear the codes and it would clear up for awhile. Then start misfiring.

However now, not sure what I have done to make it worse, but its a solid dead cylinder all the time now. The ABS and trac light also didnt come on until we drove it a bit. Now it pops right up immediately. Even after I clear those codes also.. Not sure if this has anything to do with it or not.

I am subscribed to this thread and will receive notice if there is ever a comment.

Thanks

 

ABS & traction are from the wheel sensor; ... and the misfire; both will do it.

 

Both will do what? The trac light could cause a misfire? Confused

 

No, he's saying each will illuminate the warning lights. Although, I never got those warning lights from a misfire.

 

I didnt think so. I will leave no stone unturned

 

Last grasp, feel like at this point I’m talking to my own self, but could this be a plugged up catalytic converter?

It is spewing a lot of stuff out, when the car gets hot I can smell rotten eggs and when I hold my hand at the tailpipe, I feel the exhaust sputtering out but when my wife gives the car gas I feel almost nothing. It actually diminishes.

In stark contrast to our Dodge truck, when we give it gas it blows my hand backwards

 

It is plausible! You could replace the down pipe it’s only 5 fasteners and the 2 o2 sensors

This is a nice mandrel bent pipe, a full 2 inch ID , might wake up that 2.4 a bit!

https://mufflerexpress.ca/products/c...rter-2005-2007

 

I was going to let this thread die out, but I got curious if perhaps the machine shop reversed the actual cams themselves, and not just the cam gears. But I cannot seem to find a GM part number on the cam anywhere to verify this. The only thing I can make out is the exhaust cam has a stamp D12 and the intake has a stamp D18.

Unfortunately those numbers don’t give me much in the way of a search. I can look up the GM part numbers but I cant seem to find that said part number on either of the cams.

Does anyone know?