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Old 11-09-2018 | 08:09 PM
  #41  
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From: Dallas Texas
Originally Posted by whopper
Guppys current car vin = 3GNDA23D28S573051 which translates to a 2008

The latest VIN picture he posted is from his recently purchased steering column/wheel - which translates to a 2006.
Yes whopper, thanks for clarifying that.
Old 11-09-2018 | 08:13 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by whopper
"do I need to turn my wheels to match before I install the steering column or can I straighten the steering wheel while it is powered down?" - What steering wheel are you referring to?

Re: clock spring - In my mind, the best procedure to do would be to:
1) use the existing steering wheel to center the wheels
2) before installing the new steering column, complete with steering wheel, you will need to verify that the clockspring is at the middle position when the steering wheel is horizontal.
- this link might help - https://www.autozone.com/repairguide...96b43f80cb2e11
3) remove existing steering column, and install the replacement, making sure not to disturb the steering wheel and the clock spring alignment

Note: turning the steering wheel right now on the replacement column can likely break the clock spring, as there is likely nothing to stop the wheel at the end of it's designed limit
Thanks for the link. I removed the clock spring and recentered it according to the guide. I now have a better understanding of why it is so fragile. I would have never fully understood this device without actually playing with it. See the yellow casino chip at the bottom!

Old 11-09-2018 | 08:19 PM
  #43  
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So I found that the entire " Power steering gear box" is held on by three 10mm bolts. I am wondering if I could get it on my car without removing my steering column. I'll keep ya posted on this endevour.


Old 11-11-2018 | 02:56 PM
  #44  
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So I removed my steering column and replaced the entire unit (power steering gear box, pscm and power steering assist motor) that came off the steering column from the junkyard. This took 45 minutes, most time was spent just being careful at disconnecting the 11 connectors from the steering column. Be sure to remove the airbag fuse #13 from the passenger side fuse box. Putting the steering column back in was a little more difficult, I finally had to ask the wife to come and assist. I needed her to hold the steering wheel up as I stabbed the bottom spline fit shaft into the yolk. If you are doing this, mark the exact position of the yoke to the shaft with a paint pen before separating. I did not do this and when I was done the steering wheel was off a few degrees, luckily you can remove the yoke from the shaft without removing the steering column. Putting the column back in took another 45 minutes, most of the time was spent with stabbing the yoke. So all in all it took me about 1.5 hours.

Tools of choice
1 Patience (I can not express this enough)
2 sockets 7mm, 10mm and 13mm
4 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension
3 a small short screw driver for assisting in removing the various connectors.

If you are going to do this yourself and you buy the parts from the junkyard, either remove the parts yourself or go out and watch the guy remove them, think of it as a free class. The guy at the junkyard did cut all the wires since he was in a hurry, now I see why, being careful to determine how each connector works takes a little time. The yellow airbag connector, remove the top red safety pin and press on the word "delphi", that was the trickiest one
Old 11-11-2018 | 05:19 PM
  #45  
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So, all fixed , no rattling?
Old 11-11-2018 | 05:47 PM
  #46  
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More importantly; no CEL?
Old 11-11-2018 | 06:47 PM
  #47  
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No CEL. No rattling, since I used my original steering column. Most importantly no $1400 repair bill from the dealership. I currently have about $80 vested into this. Thanks for all your help along the way. You guys rock! I can not thank you enough.
Old 11-11-2018 | 07:37 PM
  #48  
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You just did! Enjoy the fruits of your labour!
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