Hi friends.

Our 2009 Chevy HHR 2LT, 2.4L was caught in a flash flood which got gallons of water on the floor (and sub-luggage area.) Now have the car completely dry and the battery tested bad (no surprise) at Autozone (had to remove it and take it there in another vehicle.) After installing new battery, we are unable to program our keys (using the specified procedure as follows):


How to Program a 2009 Chevrolet HHR Ignition Transponder Chip Key

Step by Step How to Program Instructions

These programming procedures are only good for USA built vehicles.

Can I program a new key myself if I have no working keys?
Yes, once you have had the new key cut by a Locksmith use the following instructions.1. Insert a new cut key in ignition and turn key to the ON position for 10 minutes and 30 seconds.
2. Within 45 seconds turn the key to OFF and then back to the ON position for 10 minutes and 30 seconds.
3. Within 45 seconds turn the key to OFF and then back to the ON position for 10 minutes and 30 seconds.4. Turn key OFF then back ON. The key is now programmed. Start vehicle to test key.

Advice would be appreciated. We are not seeing the security padlock light go out after each 10 minute and 30 second cycle (and are unable to start it upon completion.) Wondering what we might be missing here. Anything we might need to check and reset (any fuses should we check)? What could our likely problem be? Guess we still could have water in a crevice or two we may have missed (but all seems dry by now.)

 

I’m thinking, water is your problem, disassembling all connections inspect for corrosion, the water would have shorted out everything, like ECM TCM , starter, alternator, possibly ignition switch, then the airbag computer that lives under the centre console. These would all need to be replaced.

 

Guess I missed something in the description. So why are you replacing the keys ? The old keys should still work after a battery replacement.
Trying to program a new, unused key you’re going to need an old Tech II or some type modern programmer.

To program a new key there is a procedure in the Owners Manual. It involves using the old key to program a new key.

 

The owners manual explains how to program a new key if you already have one good working key. I don't think those instruction you posted are valid.

Youtube et. al. have some great useful stuff, but they are also full of nonsense "instructions" that are fabricated to generate ad revenue for the creators.

 

Relearn procedure from internet

https://moduleexperts.com/gm-securit...arn-procedure/

 

I guess module experts are not English language experts. There are words missing here and there. It's probably a poorly done copy and paste.

 

Thank you for the feedback friends. Before the flash flood, we had two working keys. We initially had one and used the specified procedure successfully (of how to program a key with one working key.) So, after the flood, the keys are not working and we are unable to get the padlock light to go out using the indicated 10+10+10 relearn procedure. I sure get it that there is a lot of trash online, but the 10+10+10 indicated above matches up with what several folks recommend on this site.

The car had no power for about a week which is what led me to believe that their programming was lost and needed relearning.

Further researching seems to indicate that it may be stuck in theft mode for which the two remedies are to either disconnect the battery for an hour (previously done yielding no improvement) or using an OBD unit to reset (do not have one and difficult to get it to Autozone in its current state.)

Regarding the comment, "These would all need to be replaced." That is a possibility but that would involve excessive cost and would be giving up (likely total loss) and we are not ready for that quite yet. Have an appointment with a shop specializing in electronics / electricity but they were two weeks out in scheduling. So, we are doing what we can in the mean time. Regarding replacing everything, as we are seeing several display lights several of which look okay, we do not believe everything is toast and we still have hope.

This flash flood event was not such that the entire vehicle was swept away and recovery but where the water enter the car about an inch or two above the bottom of the doors and flooded the floor.

Again, thank you for all the feedback. It is appreciated. Any thoughts on getting it out of theft mode or resetting BCM / TCM that anyone thinks might help us (and for which there is likely no downside.)

 

There should be NO resetting needed, unless you replace modules. This centuries computers don't lose memory from being disconnected.
The keys don't work because something else is not working. Like fuses and fuse boxes are wet or a module got shorted in the water.
Why wasn't the car declared a total loss? Home owner/renter/flood insurance.

My suggestion is to disconnect and remove all of the computer modules that got wet; BCM, ECM, TCM and thoroughly air dry them and the connectors.
If the battery is good and the connection to the under hood fuse box registers 12V the theft light is supposed to go out after you insert the correct key. The PK3 fuse on the BCM being blown out could be a cause. Have you ensured a good connection at the maxi-fuse near the battery?

You may have screwed something up doing all of that reprogramming.

How deep in the car did the water get, exactly? Up to or above the BCM? Covering the battery? Over the top of the tires?

 

It doesn’t matter what you are or aren’t ready for , water and electronics are enemies, one will kill the other.

 

Water was about half way up on the tires and about 4 inches above the bottom of the doors. (I would agree with you that if the car was completely immersed, then forget about but that was not the case.) We did just find a little more water in the bottom of the center console (beneath the fuses.) Working on drying that out now. Possible total loss will be largely determined by the repair estimate from the shop (which will the insurance company will require.) Our appointment with the shop is still a little over a week away. Trying to do what we can until then (in the hopes of lowering the repair cost estimate.) Removing the BCM, ECM, TCM and ensuring they are dry before replacing seems like a good recommendation. Are these modules on that fuse panel at the front passenger's left foot?