Ran hot, then not, reduced power output....
#52
I thought more coolant than water makes for less cooling at higher temps, but still only freezing protection at -35 below. Thermostat was in the car when I got it. Just ordered one from Rockauto, shopuld be here in time for the temps to be too cold to work on (again)
#53
Watching a Youtube video on thermostat replacement, at the end they showed a coolant temp at 194 and said that was nothing to be concerned about, it had a 180 thermostat and showing 194 plus temp was normal.
Still want to replace the thermostat since I can't be sure what is in there or for how long. Seems like the next step to take. Also I will adjust the coolant mix while it is out.
The explanation about the sealing seat on the inside of the thermostat looks like it could be an issue over time.
Still want to replace the thermostat since I can't be sure what is in there or for how long. Seems like the next step to take. Also I will adjust the coolant mix while it is out.
The explanation about the sealing seat on the inside of the thermostat looks like it could be an issue over time.
#54
195 is not a "problem" just a "little concerning" if it normal. Normal operating temp is "around " 190F. Highway driving it should stay around 190F. at stop lights in very hot ambient temps it can go above 212F. The fan doesn't turn on until about 219F.
The t-stat's job is to keep the temp above 180F, the fan and radiator keep it below 219F.
The t-stat's job is to keep the temp above 180F, the fan and radiator keep it below 219F.
#55
I was able to do a little checking this morning in between phone calls before work. I found the Dex-cool (yes it has Dex-cool in it) is only good to -20 degrees, which could be some of the problem. I did add straight coolant (not mixed) when I found it was low. With the added straight coolant, it is good only to -20, so it most likely has been getting 'slushy' in the -30 degree drives, with the colder temps from the air flow. It has been sitting until I have the time and warm enough temps to replace thermostat and coolant.
Been busy with other problems around the home front too.
Been busy with other problems around the home front too.
#57
I am aware of that and plan on replacing the coolant. tough to do working in a snow bank with temps around 20 degrees,...
This morning the temp is -5 degrees, not a good time to be changing coolant or thermostat..
This morning the temp is -5 degrees, not a good time to be changing coolant or thermostat..
Last edited by jimvw; 01-28-2022 at 09:00 AM.
#58
had to do the work thing yesterday, and today a 3 hour drive to pick up a car, then it is off to the high school play. I was able to do a better job of looking at the new coolant tester and figured out I was reading it wrong. my coolant is good to -7 degrees!! it is 18 degrees outside right now!! Thinking I will take it to one of those rapid oil change places and have it replaced with some new stuff with the correct mixture. it sucks getting too old to crawl under the car. especially in the snow/ cold weather!
The down side to my 3 hour drive is the wife was with me and she figured out that she kind of likes my little HHR, hope I don't loose it!!
The down side to my 3 hour drive is the wife was with me and she figured out that she kind of likes my little HHR, hope I don't loose it!!
#59
I’m 67 , didn’t have to crawl under my HHR to drain the coolant, after I slid my catch pan under the HHR, I just reached down by the passenger side of the rad and unscrewed the drain plug , then I removed the rad cap to allow air in . Of course I waited until the system was cooled off.
after it stopped flowing , I replaced the plug, gentle now, it’s only plastic, then put my funnel into the opening up top and filled the system with premixed 50/50 Dexcool.
I put the rad cap back on, started the HHR and let it idle for about 10 minutes with the heater set on full heat.
I shut of the ignition, let the coolant cool off , at 13 degrees F that didn’t take long, I went inside and had lunch.
back out in the cold and I opened the rad cap, put the funnel back in and filled the coolant, put the rad cap back on. Started the HHR and let it idle, I took my drain pan of used coolant and poured it back into an empty Dexcool jug, I’ll take this to local parts palace for recycling.
I took a drive heater on full heat , nice and hot air! After about 15 miles. I returned home and parked with my front bumper higher then my back bumper, I shut off the ignition, went back into the house, had dinner, went to bed, next morning, I went out and removed the rad cap, topped up the coolant again, just a few ounces now, put the cap back. I repeated the park front end high for two more nights to burp any trapped air out heater core or any other area of the coolant system . Personally, I do this every five years , regardless of mileage.
Now I’m not saying you should go out into the cold and do this, but to me -7 isn’t that much protection, and I don’t trust the quick change oil joints. That’s another long story!
after it stopped flowing , I replaced the plug, gentle now, it’s only plastic, then put my funnel into the opening up top and filled the system with premixed 50/50 Dexcool.
I put the rad cap back on, started the HHR and let it idle for about 10 minutes with the heater set on full heat.
I shut of the ignition, let the coolant cool off , at 13 degrees F that didn’t take long, I went inside and had lunch.
back out in the cold and I opened the rad cap, put the funnel back in and filled the coolant, put the rad cap back on. Started the HHR and let it idle, I took my drain pan of used coolant and poured it back into an empty Dexcool jug, I’ll take this to local parts palace for recycling.
I took a drive heater on full heat , nice and hot air! After about 15 miles. I returned home and parked with my front bumper higher then my back bumper, I shut off the ignition, went back into the house, had dinner, went to bed, next morning, I went out and removed the rad cap, topped up the coolant again, just a few ounces now, put the cap back. I repeated the park front end high for two more nights to burp any trapped air out heater core or any other area of the coolant system . Personally, I do this every five years , regardless of mileage.
Now I’m not saying you should go out into the cold and do this, but to me -7 isn’t that much protection, and I don’t trust the quick change oil joints. That’s another long story!
#60
You, last time I went there was with my 2009 smart. they took the plastic pan off the front underneath and I had to tell them the motor i in the rear. they then over-tightened the drain plug so the next time, it tore the threads out of the pan. (aluminum pan, steel plug. there's a good idea!) I was able to find a longer plug and got it sealed. last time it came out.
just came in from replacing the fuse on the wife's Trailblazer, heater fan quit working... replaced a blown fuse and it works on speeds 1,2, and 3 only. 4 and 5 don't work. Guess I will be fixing the blower resistor....
just came in from replacing the fuse on the wife's Trailblazer, heater fan quit working... replaced a blown fuse and it works on speeds 1,2, and 3 only. 4 and 5 don't work. Guess I will be fixing the blower resistor....