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Rattle/Scrape/Knock from 2007 2.2L LT

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Old 11-06-2015 | 01:27 PM
  #11  
Dbeluscak's Avatar
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Joined: 05-29-2015
Posts: 542
From: Cleveland, OH
I'm with whopper. If the oil light comes on you are at an emergency level. That video you posted of the timing rattle is definitely not your knock. At 117k, it wouldn't hurt to pull the valve cover and check the timing chain guides. But more on that later.

On a 1-10 scale, where are you mechanically? I ask because I can help with troubleshooting or directions just need to know where your skills are. Do you own tools, plan on fixing it yourself? Replacing a rod can be done with the engine in the car but you'll need to take everything off the block. I hope you don't need to drive this vehicle. If it's a rod knock it's only a short amount of time before it will completely fail and ruin the block in the process. Watching your YouTube video really made me cringe. I wouldn't even drive it into the garage, I'd push it.

My 2 cents..if you need pics or assistance I'm happy to help. I have just torn apart 3 engines, 2 are back up and running. I still have the SS engine in pieces waiting for its rebuild. It's only a 15hr ride to Nebraska! Wish I was closer.
Old 11-06-2015 | 02:11 PM
  #12  
jphuddles's Avatar
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Joined: 11-06-2015
Posts: 6
From: Omaha, NE
Originally Posted by Dbeluscak
I'm with whopper. If the oil light comes on you are at an emergency level. That video you posted of the timing rattle is definitely not your knock. At 117k, it wouldn't hurt to pull the valve cover and check the timing chain guides. But more on that later.

On a 1-10 scale, where are you mechanically? I ask because I can help with troubleshooting or directions just need to know where your skills are. Do you own tools, plan on fixing it yourself? Replacing a rod can be done with the engine in the car but you'll need to take everything off the block. I hope you don't need to drive this vehicle. If it's a rod knock it's only a short amount of time before it will completely fail and ruin the block in the process. Watching your YouTube video really made me cringe. I wouldn't even drive it into the garage, I'd push it.

My 2 cents..if you need pics or assistance I'm happy to help. I have just torn apart 3 engines, 2 are back up and running. I still have the SS engine in pieces waiting for its rebuild. It's only a 15hr ride to Nebraska! Wish I was closer.
Distance is awful! I appreciate the sentiment though ^_^. As for my mechanical ability, I might rate it at a 5 maybe. I replaced my own front struts, sway bar links, wheel bearings, sway bar bushings (with help the serpintine belt), oil and sound system including amp/sub installation but I have a fear of the actual engine.

I just got hom efrom a mechanic's place. He said what he heard was the rattle of death for engines. He said that there is a 10% chance it has something to do with the belt, like a tensioner, but the sound is coming from such a low area it is more than likely the crankshaft or a rod or something. All I could hear were cash registers and see dollars flying away from me.

He said at this point, if I wanted to get a new car, use it as trade in while its still running and worth something, otherwise i could be looking at $2k for a motor. I just don't really know what to do.
Old 11-06-2015 | 02:48 PM
  #13  
Dbeluscak's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: 05-29-2015
Posts: 542
From: Cleveland, OH
Not a chance that's coming from a belt/pulley. Too low/loud for that. Pulleys and belts squeel or grind. What it sounds like is a good ol fashioned knock from a spun rod bearing. Probably caused by low oil levels.

Not quite 2k. Sure if you bought a new one, but than installing it isn't free either. If you're tight on funds we'll look into solutions for ya. If you have funds to trade it in, I'd go that route. But it will have to be one of those "we'll give you $X amount if you can push, pull, or drag it here". Because your current motor clearly needs rebuilt.

If it was me (I'm as cheap as they come) I would find a donor motor for a few hundred and drop it into your HHR. I can provide tech support over the phone if you get stuck. The engine will come out the top if it's disconnected from the trans. You'll need to remove the hood of course. Let me know, the engine is nothing to be afraid of. And once you do it, your skills will be at least an 8.

The most expensive tool you'd need is a cherry picker (engine lift) with a load leveler. The rest is basic hand tools. I got my last engine out in about 8 hours, and at least 1 of them spent looking for tools!
Old 11-06-2015 | 04:36 PM
  #14  
whopper's Avatar
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Joined: 04-09-2006
Posts: 7,039
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
x2 - and to add to Dbeluscak's comments - if you go for a used engine, make sure you get one from a donor car that is the same year as yours, otherwise major issues will crop up with wiring harness differences, and incompatibility with the engine controls. Most junk yards will advise correctly on what will work, and won't.
Old 11-06-2015 | 05:01 PM
  #15  
Oldblue's Avatar
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Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 37,825
From: Welland,Ont Canada
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Old 11-06-2015 | 08:49 PM
  #16  
imperigal's Avatar
New Member
 
Joined: 10-06-2012
Posts: 17
From: Detroit, MI
Ooooh, that video made me cringe too. You said that you had just had an oil change before the the noise developed ...that reminded me of the time I had an oil change done on my '08 Magnum RT. Requested full synthetic. They finished it up and as I pulled out I saw the oil pressure warning. I also HEARD my motor...running dry. Yup, no oil was filled...just drained. I pulled right back in and had to work sooo hard to not lose my temper. Obviously they filled it right away and no damage was done. Never, ever will go back there.

So...on the off chance you haven't checked yet...where is your oil level at now?
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