Recall didn't fix ignition problem?
09-07-2014, 06:19 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 01-26-2013
Location: Palmdale,Ca
Posts: 22
Recall didn't fix ignition problem?
I have a 2006 hhr Lt 2.4. I had not yet had the recall work done when I started having what I assumed was the ignition problem. Going over a big bump at 60 mph was what triggered it for the very first time.
The speedometer and tachometer both dropped for a split second (and then recovered) and the door locks also unlocked. The cruise control had been on as well, and it came out of cruise at the same time. I didn't immediately link it to the ignition recall because the car didn't completely shut off that time. My first thought was maybe it was a battery connection, but then I realized that my (aftermarket) stereo never even flinched, so it couldn't have been a loose battery cable.
It happened occasionally for the next several weeks (each time would be when I hit a bump), and then got very bad a couple weeks ago. It doesn't happen on every bump, but if I'm on a very bumpy road, it can happen 5 or more times in rapid succession. Each time it happens, the speedometer and tachometer drop for a split second, and the door locks unlock. Sometimes the door locks immediately lock again, and sometimes they don't.
I do lose power steering and brakes each time, but it's usually not noticeable unless the car completely stalls.The HHr usually doesn't completely stall, but there are times when it does stall. It is much more likely to completely stall if I'm driving slowly when this occurs. However, It also completely stalled twice in less than 2 miles as soon as I got on the freeway. I had to get off the freeway and abort my trip to Los Angeles (an hour away). I took it to the dealer the next day, and they performed the recall.
After I picked it up (this past Thursday), it seemed fine for the first several miles ( I went over several bumps without it happening), but after about 10 miles, the problem was back. I called the service adviser that I had dealt with and left a message (on Thursday), but I haven't received a reply.
Since the recall work didn't solve the problem, I'm wondering if maybe the parts they used might have been defective, or if the problem is caused by something else. I can't think of anything else that it could be though. If it is still likely that it's a faulty ignition part or other ignition problem, I would like more input before I return to the dealer, and if it's likely caused by something else, I'd appreciate some ideas on what could be causing it.
I haven't been on the freeway since I got the car back (I'm afraid to try), but I do have to go to Los Angeles next week, and I'm at a loss as to what to do. I do have a video of it occurring, if that would help. In the video, you can see the check engine light come on(briefly) when the tach and speedometer drop, and then the check engine light immediately goes off as soon as the speedometer and tach recover. The check engine light flashes on and then immediately back off in harmony with the speedometer and tach.
To me, this is another indication that it is the ignition switch briefly moving to accessory (also causing the tach and speedometer to briefly drop and the doors to unlock) and then back to run (or staying off, causing a complete stall, particularly when I'm going slow), as the check engine light does illuminate when it's in accessory position, even if there are no codes. Just to be sure, I have used a code reader to check for codes, and there are none.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
The speedometer and tachometer both dropped for a split second (and then recovered) and the door locks also unlocked. The cruise control had been on as well, and it came out of cruise at the same time. I didn't immediately link it to the ignition recall because the car didn't completely shut off that time. My first thought was maybe it was a battery connection, but then I realized that my (aftermarket) stereo never even flinched, so it couldn't have been a loose battery cable.
It happened occasionally for the next several weeks (each time would be when I hit a bump), and then got very bad a couple weeks ago. It doesn't happen on every bump, but if I'm on a very bumpy road, it can happen 5 or more times in rapid succession. Each time it happens, the speedometer and tachometer drop for a split second, and the door locks unlock. Sometimes the door locks immediately lock again, and sometimes they don't.
I do lose power steering and brakes each time, but it's usually not noticeable unless the car completely stalls.The HHr usually doesn't completely stall, but there are times when it does stall. It is much more likely to completely stall if I'm driving slowly when this occurs. However, It also completely stalled twice in less than 2 miles as soon as I got on the freeway. I had to get off the freeway and abort my trip to Los Angeles (an hour away). I took it to the dealer the next day, and they performed the recall.
After I picked it up (this past Thursday), it seemed fine for the first several miles ( I went over several bumps without it happening), but after about 10 miles, the problem was back. I called the service adviser that I had dealt with and left a message (on Thursday), but I haven't received a reply.
Since the recall work didn't solve the problem, I'm wondering if maybe the parts they used might have been defective, or if the problem is caused by something else. I can't think of anything else that it could be though. If it is still likely that it's a faulty ignition part or other ignition problem, I would like more input before I return to the dealer, and if it's likely caused by something else, I'd appreciate some ideas on what could be causing it.
I haven't been on the freeway since I got the car back (I'm afraid to try), but I do have to go to Los Angeles next week, and I'm at a loss as to what to do. I do have a video of it occurring, if that would help. In the video, you can see the check engine light come on(briefly) when the tach and speedometer drop, and then the check engine light immediately goes off as soon as the speedometer and tach recover. The check engine light flashes on and then immediately back off in harmony with the speedometer and tach.
To me, this is another indication that it is the ignition switch briefly moving to accessory (also causing the tach and speedometer to briefly drop and the doors to unlock) and then back to run (or staying off, causing a complete stall, particularly when I'm going slow), as the check engine light does illuminate when it's in accessory position, even if there are no codes. Just to be sure, I have used a code reader to check for codes, and there are none.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Last edited by whopper; 09-07-2014 at 09:57 AM.
09-07-2014, 06:37 AM
#2
Banned
Join Date: 10-02-2010
Location: Port Huron, MI
Posts: 5,933
When you've completely stalled, does it start right back up?
Does it give you any issue?
Are there any loose cables to the under hood wiring harnesses?
Is your Fuse Box secured well?
Are any of your fuses not properly seated?
Does it give you any issue?
Are there any loose cables to the under hood wiring harnesses?
Is your Fuse Box secured well?
Are any of your fuses not properly seated?
You said you have an aftermarket Stereo on your Trucklet. What else have you changed electronically on your HHR?
Mod/Admin, am I mistaken in thinking that the Stereo has a fuse on the interior fuse box, not the under hood?
09-07-2014, 07:07 AM
#3
Platinum Member
Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,371
Welcome to the site. 
The reason the recall work didn't "fix" your problem is because those parts are most likely not the cause of your problem.
You have a wiring connection issue. Most likely a positive side battery feed.(an outside chance of a bad ground connection.)
3 likely places to check: 1.At the battery and it's connections in that compartment. 2. The positive wire connection at the underhood fuse box. This is a known trouble spot. 3. The fuse box itself is known to become loose over time and not make good contact between the 2 halves of the box.
Based on your description, it's seems #1 or 2 would be the most likely.
The reason the recall work didn't "fix" your problem is because those parts are most likely not the cause of your problem.
You have a wiring connection issue. Most likely a positive side battery feed.(an outside chance of a bad ground connection.)
3 likely places to check: 1.At the battery and it's connections in that compartment. 2. The positive wire connection at the underhood fuse box. This is a known trouble spot. 3. The fuse box itself is known to become loose over time and not make good contact between the 2 halves of the box.
Based on your description, it's seems #1 or 2 would be the most likely.
09-07-2014, 09:59 AM
#5
Banned
Join Date: 10-02-2010
Location: Port Huron, MI
Posts: 5,933
09-07-2014, 10:05 AM
#6
Platinum Member
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,037
LOL - I know what you mean. I think a lot of people won't even bother trying to read them like that - hopefully that will help gather more responses. :)
candyman93551 - so far there is some good advice there - let us know how the suggestions pan out for you.
candyman93551 - so far there is some good advice there - let us know how the suggestions pan out for you.
09-07-2014, 01:39 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: 12-14-2007
Location: Toronto ON Canada
Posts: 2,964
Welcome to the site.
The reason the recall work didn't "fix" your problem is because those parts are most likely not the cause of your problem.
You have a wiring connection issue. Most likely a positive side battery feed.(an outside chance of a bad ground connection.)
3 likely places to check: 1.At the battery and it's connections in that compartment. 2. The positive wire connection at the underhood fuse box. This is a known trouble spot. 3. The fuse box itself is known to become loose over time and not make good contact between the 2 halves of the box.
Based on your description, it's seems #1 or 2 would be the most likely.
The reason the recall work didn't "fix" your problem is because those parts are most likely not the cause of your problem.
You have a wiring connection issue. Most likely a positive side battery feed.(an outside chance of a bad ground connection.)
3 likely places to check: 1.At the battery and it's connections in that compartment. 2. The positive wire connection at the underhood fuse box. This is a known trouble spot. 3. The fuse box itself is known to become loose over time and not make good contact between the 2 halves of the box.
Based on your description, it's seems #1 or 2 would be the most likely.
09-07-2014, 09:26 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: 11-29-2007
Location: Wilmington,Illinois
Posts: 175
I think you need to get the car in to have it looked at. If it is showing the CEL then there should be something stored in the ECM for what caused it.
Maybe the dealers out your way are faster but when I heard about the ingintion recall on mine I called the dealer and they needed the VIN to order my new ignition, I couldn't just stop in and have it done. Took almost 6 weeks for them to get the parts and new keys.
Sounds like you definitely have something electrical going on. Better safe than sorry.
Best of luck.
Maybe the dealers out your way are faster but when I heard about the ingintion recall on mine I called the dealer and they needed the VIN to order my new ignition, I couldn't just stop in and have it done. Took almost 6 weeks for them to get the parts and new keys.
Sounds like you definitely have something electrical going on. Better safe than sorry.
Best of luck.
09-08-2014, 06:25 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 01-26-2013
Location: Palmdale,Ca
Posts: 22
Thanks Everyone for your help (and whopper for the editing).
LawDog88: When it does stall cpmpletely, it usually starts right back up, but there were a couple times that I had to turn the key several times before it would restart. all the cables and fuses seem secure, but the fuse box seemed loose. the only other electronic device is an "Ultragauge" that connects to the OBD2 port. It was disconnected and at home when I picked the car up, but it still did the same thing.
LawDog88: When it does stall cpmpletely, it usually starts right back up, but there were a couple times that I had to turn the key several times before it would restart. all the cables and fuses seem secure, but the fuse box seemed loose. the only other electronic device is an "Ultragauge" that connects to the OBD2 port. It was disconnected and at home when I picked the car up, but it still did the same thing.
09-08-2014, 06:35 AM
#10
Banned
Join Date: 10-02-2010
Location: Port Huron, MI
Posts: 5,933
Well, I have noticed if you try and start it back up right after the motor stalled (~0.5 second) you might not get it started back up. I have figured out, that if the car hasn't sit for a few seconds after stalling, it will attempt to start, sputter, and fail. (I have a 5sp)..