Replaced Timing chain tensioner - now big problem
#1
Replaced Timing chain tensioner - now big problem
2006 2.2L HHR, I noticed a rattle every time I started the engine, I replaced the timing chain tensioner to the new style as recommended, the old one came out in pieces but nothing fell down inside, I primed the new one and installed it, I then turned the engine over and it rattled and spun, I am wondering if the chain either slipped off or broke, now the engine just spins and seems to have no compression holding it back, am I screwed?
#4
I'm with Don, probably a broken/weak guide and the new tensioner was the last straw. Same thing happened to my wife's SS engine. We replaced the tensioner and the rattle got worse, guide broke a few days later.
If you pull off the valve cover you'll want to check the guide that runs down the side with the intake cam. It's nearly the length of the block and has been 3 out of 4 timing issues I've had with rebuilds.
If you pull off the valve cover you'll want to check the guide that runs down the side with the intake cam. It's nearly the length of the block and has been 3 out of 4 timing issues I've had with rebuilds.
#8
Per thr Pros
Here is the Cloyes Factory video, covers the removal and installation process for General Motor's Non-Variable Valve Timing ECOTEC engine utilizing Cloyes aftermarket replacement products (9-4201S & 9-4202S). It states it's for a GM Ecotec 2.2 timing installation tips, Non VVT (someone tell us what the different is for Non VVT vs one with VVT, please).
Again it covers the timing chain tensioners, the model to get (I only use the GM one), how to install it... AND set/ activate it by pressing it in through the top with the value cover off.
Note many have just screwed the old one out and the new one in and had no problem. When the old one comes apart it is because it is the old design and does not have a snap ring in the end so nothing to keep it together. If the piston stays in the hole, get it out with a magnet (I know because one of the member's told me)
This is a good complete video, Cloyes makes good stuff and works to improve the factory set up. The guy in the video is a tech and he gives you his name and phone number so if question call him. YES... I have talked to him, nice guy, helpful. Name Cody Smith at...
csmith@cloyes.com Phone: 479.646.1662 ex 228 (I didn't have his ex number so I got passed around until they got him so here is the complete story and full info as I know it.)
Hope this helps many and one of you senior members please put this in other files for others to find it.
Again it covers the timing chain tensioners, the model to get (I only use the GM one), how to install it... AND set/ activate it by pressing it in through the top with the value cover off.
Note many have just screwed the old one out and the new one in and had no problem. When the old one comes apart it is because it is the old design and does not have a snap ring in the end so nothing to keep it together. If the piston stays in the hole, get it out with a magnet (I know because one of the member's told me)
This is a good complete video, Cloyes makes good stuff and works to improve the factory set up. The guy in the video is a tech and he gives you his name and phone number so if question call him. YES... I have talked to him, nice guy, helpful. Name Cody Smith at...
csmith@cloyes.com Phone: 479.646.1662 ex 228 (I didn't have his ex number so I got passed around until they got him so here is the complete story and full info as I know it.)
Hope this helps many and one of you senior members please put this in other files for others to find it.
#9
VVT has the actuators on the cam gears, and VVT valves on the valve cover. Same basic procedure. All 2.4L are VVT, 2009 on 2.2L are VVT.
If the old tensioner falls apart, it means that it has gone beyond design "tensioning" and the chain needs replacing. There is an internal retainer sort of spring loaded ratchet thing, when it reaches the end it comes out. The new design is hydraulic, driven by oil pressure (I think it has a spring also), that's the reason for the retainer.
If the old tensioner falls apart, it means that it has gone beyond design "tensioning" and the chain needs replacing. There is an internal retainer sort of spring loaded ratchet thing, when it reaches the end it comes out. The new design is hydraulic, driven by oil pressure (I think it has a spring also), that's the reason for the retainer.
#10
Oil is a big factor
I think it can't be over stated that the use of a good
synthetic oil like Mobil 1 is mandatory in these engines. And changing it every 5000 miles or sooner is a must. This goes double when talking about the timing chain and its parts. I have talked to Mobil Oil Company (always ask for an engineer and not a person on the help line desk... you may be given another number to call). They told me that Mobil 1 is a 10,000 mile oil (or more). I asked what the different was in the extended Mobil1 15,000 mile oil was... the guy said it has additives for the seals to keep them from leaking was the only thing. I told him that the regular Mobil 1 had to be a 15,000 mile oil then too. He said they call it a 10,000 mile oil but when I recounted his story of the 15,000 Extended oil have only additives and why it was not called a 15,000 mile oil... well he started over with the same story. So changing at 5,000 you can't go to far off.