By the way,

THANKS FOR THE PICS.
They helped a hole bunch.
:youroc k:

I guess you can tell U made my day.

 

Let's hope it stays put! If it is broken it will work loose again, so keep thinking positive!

 

Went to Tractor Supply this morning and just repaired the shifter tonight. Took about a half hour to make the pin using a 4" grinder to undercut it and a piece of plastic from butt connector to keep spring from sliding over shaft. I was going to order a new shifter tonight from GMpartsdirect for 91 bucks, that was until I read your post early this morning. So I owe you 89 bucks for your idea. Fantastic job on your post and God Bless.

 

Easy enough? I thought it a pretty good fix and I thought it should last.

How did you drill the hole for the pin?
Did you get the pin to seat solidly?

Dave


P.S.
I prefer Cash!

 

Good thread.

However, this should be moved to the "How to Guide" section.

 

I measured the dia of pin and drilled it .002 bigger. I believe it was .154 dia on pin with knurled area in center bigger. Had to seat it with hammer, was tight fit. Did not have a vise to hold shaft to drill. Held on top of tool box and drilled with cordless drill, using the broken piece for a guide to get proper location of hole.
Checks in the mail.

 

I used a fiberglass rod, found in the same area as the driveway reflectors. This is not as flexible so I had to make a few changes. First I cut a new plunger to match the length of the old one. In the area of the old plunger where it looks like small balls chained together for flexibility, I kept swiping the fiberglass rod over the saw blade and created a flat opposite each other the same length to create flexibility. This still did not work so I placed the shifter shaft in a vice a straightened the slight bend out of it. It did not eliminate the bend but took most of it out. Now the fiberglass plunger works well and should be much stronger than the plastic that was in it. A 5/32 drill bit is the size you need to drill the hole for the pin and still will allow the splined portion to press into the shaft so it will not back out. Ensure everything works on the shifter assy. before re-installing it on the car. I liked the fiberglass rod better just because of the perceived durability. This thread saved me bookoo moolah. Only spent less than $4 versus the over $200 a dealer would have charged.

Thanks
David Miller

 

I'm posting on this thread so I can find it again. Great fix.

 

great fix.. so now i guess your full of shift!!!

 

Mine is broken too... I'm off to the hardware store to find one o these...