shudder at 60MPH and noticable clunk when releasing brake from complete stop
#1
shudder at 60MPH and noticable clunk when releasing brake from complete stop
2008 HHR, 72,000 Miles. Noticed vibration or shudder when driving between 60 and 65MPH on the freeway regardless of the road condition itself. Replaced new tires and brakes, all good. Also noticed clunk when releasing the brake from a complete stop. Stepped outside of car and had someone depress the brake and let go. I can actually see the tire shudder back and forth when they released the brake on both passenger and driver side as if the suspension or front end was loose. Could this be bad Shocks or Suspension? Any Suggestions?
#3
x2. the rear bushing in the lower control arms is a known point of failure, and it allows the suspension to move as it gets worn and sloppy.
The easy way to fix it, is to replace the entire lower control arm which comes complete with bushings and lower ball joint all pre installed. Or you can just remove the LCA and replace the bushing itself. Be aware that the LCA's are cast aluminium, and the ones you may find available are stamped black steel - they are actually for the Cobalt cars.
The easy way to fix it, is to replace the entire lower control arm which comes complete with bushings and lower ball joint all pre installed. Or you can just remove the LCA and replace the bushing itself. Be aware that the LCA's are cast aluminium, and the ones you may find available are stamped black steel - they are actually for the Cobalt cars.
#4
x2. the rear bushing in the lower control arms is a known point of failure, and it allows the suspension to move as it gets worn and sloppy.
The easy way to fix it, is to replace the entire lower control arm which comes complete with bushings and lower ball joint all pre installed. Or you can just remove the LCA and replace the bushing itself. Be aware that the LCA's are cast aluminium, and the ones you may find available are stamped black steel - they are actually for the Cobalt cars.
The easy way to fix it, is to replace the entire lower control arm which comes complete with bushings and lower ball joint all pre installed. Or you can just remove the LCA and replace the bushing itself. Be aware that the LCA's are cast aluminium, and the ones you may find available are stamped black steel - they are actually for the Cobalt cars.
#8
This thread prompted me to finally purchase my control arms. The rear bushings have been ashakin and aclunkin for months now...... Don't be like me me and just fix them now. If you have an impact wrench the job will be extremely quick just don't use it to put the new control arms on. Torque em to spec !! If you don't have a torque wrench order one when you get your new parts because this particular job requires you to follow the torque by the book for safety and longevity of the repair!
#9
Got the Moog LCA bushing (front) for $18 each they're now $20. Cheaper than most places you'll find, everything else I got from rockauto including rear LCA bushings. All Moog.
https://www.stockwiseauto.com/moog-k...8HAQ&ymm_gid=2
https://www.stockwiseauto.com/moog-k...8HAQ&ymm_gid=2
#10
rcgem - ok, now that we have suggested what the problem MIGHT be, and most PROBABLY is, are you going to actually check it out to verify that the suggestions are pinpointing the cause of the problem?
It would be a good move to verify the diagnosis before throwing $'s at it, which might not resolve the problem.
It would be a good move to verify the diagnosis before throwing $'s at it, which might not resolve the problem.