So after 20k miles of no real problems, my SS is starting to have problems. At first it threw a few P2268 engine codes. Dealer replaced bypass spring and a couple other things, but it still came back.

The problem that I was having to begin with was the car would limit boost to 5 psi and stay like that. It was like the bypass valve was getting stuck. Every time that happened, I just popped the hood and unplugged the thing the vacuum to the bypass connects to, wait for a click, plug it back in.

Brought it in again, dealer was supposed to replace a part but told me one of my TMAP sensors need to be replaced, and since I have a stage 1 kit, they don't want to spend $700 for the kit to just grab one sensor and told me to bring it back to the dealership where I had it installed.

I've been driving the car for 2+ weeks without having that issue since the last dealer visit. Car ran perfectly fine. The problem usually occurred when we were having a heatwave.

Tonight the problem happened again. I was on the freeway in 5th gear and all of a sudden it just felt like the motor was stumbling, rev matched and put it into 3rd, floored it for a sec and it went away for a sec. Then I put it back into 5th and after a second it happened again, then boost was limited to 5 psi max. However, unlike the other times, after about 5 minutes, the car was running normal again, but the transmission felt like it was stumbling into gears.

It did not throw a single engine code. I'm not too hard on the car, I've only used launch control 2-3 times and typically only give it gas on freeway on ramps and don't over rev the motor.

This is my first manual car and I'm not sure if its happening because the clutch is slipping and the motor is limiting boost to apply power to the wheels, or if its something else.

I was looking at TSB 09-07-29-003 https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...t=23231&page=9 but don't have excessive wheel hop or anything.

Also, occasionally I'll have problems where I push in the clutch pedal and it doesn't come back up. This has only happened twice or so. Also it seems some times I have to give it a little more gas to get into first, but sometimes I don't.

I have an 08 SS with manual + LSD. All I've done to it is the Stage 1 upgrade and new charge piping.

Any tips/advice on what I should do? Thanks,

 

Did you try the famous disconnect the battery trick? I was having the 5psi problem for a while back in July. I tried disconnecting the battery while I was at work. When I reconnected it I have had no boost problems since. The other issues with shifting and the clutch were not experienced by me, but its at least worth a try.

Did they do the work under warranty?
Also has the dealer said anything about your aftermarket charge pipes voiding the warranty?


SPPD

 

The dealer couldn't find anything wrong. They keep telling me to bring it back to the dealer that did the stage kit install. It's an intermittent problem. It's not even throwing engine codes anymore. They didn't say anything about the charge piping though.

If I wasn't upside down on my loan I'd trade the stupid thing in.

 

I am in the early stages of tuning for my big wheel turbo. I get DTCs REGULARLY that DO NOT throw CELs. The only way I can see them is through HPTuners. Maybe you're sitting on a DTC that's not lighting up the dash. Have you looked through any analyzer that can read the actual codes??

 

you dont need to buy the kit, you can just try to buy a Bosch Sensor.

Bosch P/N 0 281 002 845
GM P/N 55206797

they are most commonly used in a Alph Romero 159 1.9L 16V JTDM

you can get them on fleabay

i posted other links but i think its a different parts, so good luck finding them

just found the sensors may be used on the 2005-2006 jeep liberty CRD
so you should be able to get them at a chrysler dealer

Mass air flow sensor, liberty, 2.8l 05-06 $133.00 $106.40
Map sensor, liberty, 2.8l 05-06 $64.60 $51.68

cant verify the price either

no part numbers, so you need to call and give them the bosch number

 

As far as the clutch goes. Have you checked your brake fluid reservoir? The clutch is hydraulic and shares fluid with the brakes. If you are low on fluid... it will effect the clutch.

 

I doubt the sensor is bad because the car ran fine for 2 weeks since the last time I brought it in. It hasn't given me any symptoms that would make me think its the sensor. I have nothing that I can use to read DTCs.

The clutch problem only happens randomly, only has happened a handful of times or so. But I'll check the fluid today.

 

If the dealer can't get the sesnors (we are workingon getting them released for service and I don't know if they are out yet) the can charge the kit to warranty using warranty Labor operation code R9224. The dealer doesn't pay $700 for the kit either. The warranty claim is paid to the dealer from GM. Any dealer can do the warranty work not just the installing dealer.

 

That's good to know, but I'm just going to have my friend at the installing dealer check it out. If it was a bad sensor, it'd be constantly throwing bad check engine codes wouldn't it?

 

I'm pretty sure if you are low on fluid, you will have trouble disengaging the clutch, not the other way around.