I have a 2006 HHR LT, with the 2.4l, 53k original miles.

After having it sit up for a few years (wife’s car – long story), I have it back on the road now.

So far I have replace the expected items:
Tires (old set was out of round because of how long it didn’t move)
Serpentine belt
Front struts
The front pads and rotors
Had a frontend alignment done

Initially I was concerned about the bad gas in the tank, so I ran Seafoam (in the fuel) along with Premium fuel for the first few tanks. I’ve put about 2,000 miles on the car in the past month (I have a very long commute), and have had only a few issues.

I changed the oil when I first got it running, and change again after about 500 miles, just to make sure all the crud was flushed out.

2 weeks ago, the check engine light came on – error code “P0010”. So this past weekend I changed both of the Camshaft Position Solenoid Valves (intake and exhaust – as I understand it). A lot easier than I had feared. Other than the plastic engine cover giving me fits, it went well. The code is gone, the engine runs smoother, and the powerband is back to where it should be.

At the moment I’m fighting starting issues. The car will almost never start on the first try. The engine turns over like she should, but just won’t catch.
If I cycle the key back to the “off” position, it turns over again, and then after a few seconds, starts, most of the time.
If I simply leave the key in the run position, and then try to start it again it catches almost immediately, again – most of the time.

Every so often (maybe once out of 10-15 times) it will take a 3rd attempt before the engine starts up.

This morning I tried something a little different. I turned the key to the urn position, waited about 10 seconds and then tried to start is – there was not change. It still took two tries to start the engine.

The only other issue that I think might be related, was earlier in the week. After starting the car, I drove it less than 2 blocks and stopped at the first light. The engine sputtered a bit, I thought it might stall, put the transmission in Neutral, and the idle smoothed out. I put it back into drive, and the problem was gone.

I have no error codes currently, The engine doesn’t stumble when I accelerate, the power output feels about where it should be, and my fuel mileage seems about right (27 mpg at 75”ish” on the highway).

I am thinking that either :
A. The ignition switch is bad (it was replaced during the factory recall way back when). OR
B. The fuel pump is either clogged (I’d love to know who the genius was who decided that inline fuel filters were bad); or the pump itself might be going out.

Am I on track here? Or am I missing something?

How can I test each?

How difficult is it change the fuel pump on this car? Do I have to drop the tank, or was GM generous enough to give me access through the interior?

Any help would be appreciated. Hopefully I can stop chasing gremlins shortly.

Thanks!

 

Sounds like the fuel pressure is bleeding off. Either the fuel pump or a leak.

 

You’re going to have to drop the tank,

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...acement-36541/

 

Before you get all excited check the EVAP purge valve (under hood). It should be closed when disconnected or engine off.
When they stick open it is like an anti-choke; it lets too much air into the manifold.

 

Pakrat,
I've had that issue for almost 4 years now.
I've replaced both, purge and vent selonoids. No fix.
It doesn't bother me enough to want to drop the tank.
I just accept that 2 starts are what is needed.

 

donbrew,

The EVAP Purge Valve; where is it, what does it look like, and how do I check if it is closed or open?

 

There is an EVAP valve AND a purge valve.
One is on the engine (purge) and one is under the car on the canister to the rear of the tank (evap).
If you search the threads, using the google mode, you can find them and how to replace them

 

There the grey piece with the hose bib, it should be closed

 

Actually they are both EVAP valves. Under hood is purge under car is vent. They bot are supposed set codes but don't always bother to read the book.
Also possible a broken hose from the valve to the manifold or a crack or loose something else on the manifold.

 

Could test one thing at a time, to eliminate the problem.
most parts palaces rent fuel pressure testers , it should read 55 to 65 PSI and not drop in the first few minutes after you shut off the ignition switch