Hey all,

I've been a long time lurker here, and you've been tremendously helpful in keeping my HRR going. I finally have an issue that I can't quite seem to figure out and couldn't find by searching the forum.

Like many of you, my fuel line near the rear wheel rusted and developed a small leak. I first noticed that it cranked longer than usual before it would start and would chug/idle roughly initially. Once it started and the idle smoothed out (roughly 10-20 seconds), the car ran fine. I finally figured it out when I started smelling gas outside of the car and found a small drip associated with the gas line. Since it was the middle of winter and I was garage-less, I went with the quick fix and initially patched the bad section with fuel rated hose and clamps.

That did the trick for a few months up until about 2-3 weeks ago when the longer start and rough idle returned.

I figured that either my patch job was coming loose/leaking or additional areas were rusting through and leaking. Since I now have a garage and the weather is a bit warmer (still way too cold for April though...), I replaced the entire fuel line yesterday with an FL255-C2A fuel line replacement kit (https://www.linestogo.com/hhr-fuel-l...fl255-c2a-set/). Everything went well for the most part with installation, and the car started and ran well afterwards. I assessed for any leaks or other issues while letting it run and didn't see or smell any leaking.

However, I experienced the same delayed start and rough idle when I went to start the car this morning. It again ran well once it got going. So it would seem that there's still a small leak allowing a pressure drop when the fuel pump isn't running.

I'm planning on rechecking the hose fittings to make sure they are tight and not leaking. The leak doesn't seem large since no gas smell is noted and no visible fluid loss is present with any of the line (as far as I could see when watching while the car ran).

Any other thoughts on how to figure out where the leaking/pressure loss is coming from? Should I buy a combustible gas detector and run it along the fuel line?

Thanks!!

 

Did you replace both lines? Also check the EVAP purge valve under the hood, it should be NC.

 

Did you wipe the connections for the vapour lines and the fuel pressure line, also check the EVAP Solenoid under the hood the fitting should be an 8mm or 5/16” , the lines come with a 10 mm or 3/8” fitting . But that should set a code.

 

So by the way you are describing this... It sounds like you do not know if you have a fuel leak now...

By any chance, are you getting a P0300 series OBD code?

 

Seems to be the fuel pressure regulator, it’s in the fuel pump assembly in the tank.

 

How quickly would pressure be lost if this were the case? Would this throw an engine code? Any good way to test/confirm it without replacing the fuel pump assembly?

Thanks!

 

Part of the fuel pressure check is turn the engine off and wait 5 minutes. To check the check valve.

Also, sometimes the EVAP purge valve stick without a code, disconnect it and blow into it. It is NormallyClosed. If is open on start up it can act like a vacuum leak.

 

I replied to the previous posts, but it doesn't seem to have posted. Here's what it said along with reply to the more recent post:

I didn't specifically wipe them, but I can check that when I check the line connectors. I can also check the EVAP solenoid.

You're correct; I'm not 100% certain that this is a fuel leak. It seems like a pressure issue with the fuel line, and the signs are the same as when I did have a fuel leak (longer crank to start time, initial rough idle, normal thereafter), so that's what I'm basing it on. One thing I forgot to mention was that once the car is started and running normally, if I turn off the car and start it again, it starts up and runs no problem. I haven't fully tested how long the car has to be off for the problem to reoccur.

There aren't any engine codes (CEL or when I hook up my OBD).

I'm assuming if it's open when tested like this it should be replaced, or is there a different fix?

Thanks again, guys! You all/this forum are great!

 

This doesn't sound like a issue with fuel pressure or flow to me... If your car warms up, and then you shut it off, and start it again, then the issue goes away....

Wait minute.... Place the car in neutral while it is doing this chugging and hit the gas real quick to see if the idle levels out for me, please...

(Another thing to look at) By any chance, do you have a oil leak above the starter and when was the last time you changed your oil and filter?

 

I want to blow through a few things to cover some bases so time isn't wasted. Could you see if your scan tool can pull some ecm data like this...