Any machine shop should be able to resurface the flywheel, mine have always used a stone and not a carbide cutting tool
https://images.app.goo.gl/ywdVq92PXQpzPajx6

 

RJ- Since you are putting this flywheel on your New engine, my point about marking orientation in this application is obviously not applicable.......... Doh..

 

Actually, I just installed the flywheel yesterday, and I was surprised. I think your advice does not apply to the Ecotec.

I expected the holes in the flywheel, and crankshaft, to be equally spaced. They were not. I think I had to turn the flywheel 5 times before the holes would line up.

I think this clutch has been replaced before. The flywheel bolts, and the pressure plate bolts, had not only the blue loctite, but also had what looks like Rectorseal #5(pipe dope) on them. The bolts for the starter were also a bit rounded off.

The flywheel is GM, and the pressure plate was Sachs.

$45 to have the flywheel resurfaced, and they got it done in about an hour.

 

Randy.
I remember some of those flywheels that will only bolt up in one position. But, it has been 30 years since I did my last clutch job.
Guess some of the modern vehicles still use the same "tech" that came out long ago.
I always assumed back then that flywheels got balanced on the engine at the factory. Thus the reason for the "it only fits 1 way" .
Made sure the flywheel went back in the balanced position if it was ever R&R'd.

 

I'm not going to write a how-to for this whole job, it's just too much. I will point out things that surprise me.

Like the Haynes manual being wrong. The underhood fuse block, they got that wrong.



They say to remove the cover, remove the 4 bolts inside, and the 1 nut outside, and the remote positive terminal(which they say is the one at the top left of the pic), and the power steering wire(which they say is at the bottom left of the pic). Then you can remove the fuse block.

Of course, we know that the power steering wire is actually at the top, and the remote positive terminal is at the bottom.

Of the 4 bolts inside, you only need to remove the bottom 3. There are also clips on the outside, 1 on each side, then you can remove the upper half of the fuse block.



You will then have this 2nd picture, except that the top multi-connector is still attached to the top by the 1 bolt you didn't remove. That's ok, you can just bungee or wire this upper half out of the way.

The 3 multi-connectors that are in the lower half of the fuse block are clipped in. Unclip them and remove them from the fuse block.

Now the 1 nut on the outside of the fuse block, seen in pic #1 has to be removed, then the lower half of the fuse block can be removed from the car, right Haynes? NO. There is another nut outside of the fuse block, on the lower right side of pic #1, near the white sticker, it's kind of buried in there.

But wait, there's more! Get under the car. Of course, it's on jack stands or a lift, right, you're being safe? Good. Below the fuse block are 2 bolts. Remove them and now you'll be able to remove the lower half of the fuse block. Really, I'm not kidding this time, you can take it out now. Here's a pic of those 2 bolts. I've got a socket on the upper, and then there's 1 right below that.



Another thing, they say to remove the hood, I have seen no reason to do so yet. Engine, transmission, and cradle are out already.

 

Nice correction for the fuse block removal. That’s gonna save someone alotta, grief!

 

It was aggravating. I was thinking there might be 2 more under the fuse block, closer to the firewall. I was relieved that there were not, that would have been harder to get to.

Here is the bottom half out of the car.



To the lower right is where the nut shown in the first pic goes. To the lower left is where the unseen nut goes. Just to show how deep it's buried.

 

My new clutch is scheduled for delivery tomorrow, so I'm trying to stay busy. I decided to install the 3 bar Bosch TMAP sensors.

They came with black O-rings installed and green ones in a bag. The black ones look a little bit bigger, so I tried them first. Seems like a good fit. I filed off the nub on the lower sensor so that it would rotate into position. Put the screw in it, and the other screw in the charge pipe so there wouldn't be a leak.

Then installed the other one on the intake manifold, also a 1-fastener deal, a bolt this time.

My brain says, "these are both the same part number. The bolt is much bigger than that little Phillips screw for the lower". Hmmm, is that screw doing anything to secure the sensor to the charge pipe?

Back under the car, grab the sensor, it pops right out. Here's the screw, and the hole. And the washer I'm going to put on the screw.


I thought I had read that the lower could be mounted backwards, and then it wouldn't bang into the AC compressor. It looks like that is not possible, it looks like it would hit the radiator or the fan. Once the engine is installed and the charge pipe hooked up, I'll be able to see better where everything is positioned. I may have to pull the bumper cover and shim the intercooler out.

 

Good to know, Thank U, I was raised to always mark the crank & flywheel prior to removal, so re-installing I never tried to fit it in different rotation. Because my Dad said they were balanced from factory.
I know I have put on flex plates on different sbc's & never had issue finding correct orientation.

 

Most engines are internally balanced.
All weighting done on the counter weights of the crank.
So front damper/pulley and flywheel (manual or automatic) don't come into play.
Yes there are some engines that are externally balanced, where both the damper and flywheel have to be indexed properly when installed, because those parts were balanced along the the rotating assembly too.