Timing chain kit arriving. Need advice
#1
Timing chain kit arriving. Need advice
My timing chain water pump cloyes kit will arrive today. I am also replacing both rear wheel cylinders, a leaking oil pressure sensor, cleaning the throttle body (oil from the cover vent) and going to drop the transmission pan to change fluid and filter...but the timing chains are top of the list.
I have to send my daughter to town to pick up a few things. My daughters Jeep is also out of commission so we are hiring a friend to take her to town and pick up stuff. So it’s a one shot deal really. I’m going to list what I have and you guys help me out please with advice.
What I have
cloyes 94201sawp
mechanics ratchet/socket set and power bars
inch lbs and foot lb torque wrenches
32mm socket for the tensioner
one 10” vise grip
fresh oil and filter
fresh dexcool
What I intend to get in town
timing cover gasket (I neglected to get it with my kit from rockauto 😒
hex10 socket
rental water pump holder
engine degreaser to clean the valve cover
what I need advice on
my kit does not include cam bolts. Can they be reused?
do I need a new bolt for the harmonic balancer? I’ve read it can and cannot be reused. But I reused it when I did the seal last month so I’m wondering if I should risk reusing again.
any other bolts or tools I need to get?
Should I pick up another 10” vise grip for holding the cams in place while I install as per the cloyes video?
Also should I get the 24mm wrench to use while breaking loose the cam bolts as shown on the cloyes video?
anything else u recommend while doing this job like drop the oil pan or flush the coolant etc?
thanks in advance. 😁. I’m so happy I signed with this forum. Your help has already been invaluable. 👍
I have to send my daughter to town to pick up a few things. My daughters Jeep is also out of commission so we are hiring a friend to take her to town and pick up stuff. So it’s a one shot deal really. I’m going to list what I have and you guys help me out please with advice.
What I have
cloyes 94201sawp
mechanics ratchet/socket set and power bars
inch lbs and foot lb torque wrenches
32mm socket for the tensioner
one 10” vise grip
fresh oil and filter
fresh dexcool
What I intend to get in town
timing cover gasket (I neglected to get it with my kit from rockauto 😒
hex10 socket
rental water pump holder
engine degreaser to clean the valve cover
what I need advice on
my kit does not include cam bolts. Can they be reused?
do I need a new bolt for the harmonic balancer? I’ve read it can and cannot be reused. But I reused it when I did the seal last month so I’m wondering if I should risk reusing again.
any other bolts or tools I need to get?
Should I pick up another 10” vise grip for holding the cams in place while I install as per the cloyes video?
Also should I get the 24mm wrench to use while breaking loose the cam bolts as shown on the cloyes video?
anything else u recommend while doing this job like drop the oil pan or flush the coolant etc?
thanks in advance. 😁. I’m so happy I signed with this forum. Your help has already been invaluable. 👍
#2
I'm not sure what you need a 32 mm for. If you have the chains off you don't need the water pump tool. I would not worry about replacing any bolts, others have different opinions. If you are very careful you can reuse the gasket. Get a magnetic pick up tool. Don't forget 7 quarts of Dexron VI, the parts guy may try to sell you Dexron IV. You don't really need to hold the camshafts
That agenda may be too ambitious.
That agenda may be too ambitious.
#3
I haven't done my change yet.
The only thing I know is to pre soak the chains in oil before installation.
I don't understand the use of vice-grips to hold the cams. Just don't rotate them.
From my understanding the job can be done without removing the cam sprockets by removing the chain guides and tensioner first.
This allows enough slack in the chain so it can be removed from the crank sprocet..
Oldblue and youtube can give you all the advice you seek.
The only thing I know is to pre soak the chains in oil before installation.
I don't understand the use of vice-grips to hold the cams. Just don't rotate them.
From my understanding the job can be done without removing the cam sprockets by removing the chain guides and tensioner first.
This allows enough slack in the chain so it can be removed from the crank sprocet..
Oldblue and youtube can give you all the advice you seek.
#4
I'm not sure what you need a 32 mm for. If you have the chains off you don't need the water pump tool. I would not worry about replacing any bolts, others have different opinions. If you are very careful you can reuse the gasket. Get a magnetic pick up tool. Don't forget 7 quarts of Dexron VI, the parts guy may try to sell you Dexron IV. You don't really need to hold the camshafts
That agenda may be too ambitious.
That agenda may be too ambitious.
Good to know I don’t need the water pump tool. Every video I watched had the tool
I’ll get a gasket just in case. Would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
I have the Dexron VI and a magnetic pickup tool as well as a magnetic ratchet set.
LOL. Too ambitious? Lol. Well. I don’t plan on doing all those things today. Just what I’m doing over the weekend while I have time but the timing chain is first.
#5
The 32 mm socket would be for the timing chain tensioner, I use my 15/16 th or and adjustable wrench for the camshaft , I agree with Donbrew, reuse the camshaft and crankshaft bolts. I cut the OEM timing cover gasket so I don’t have to remove the engine mount bracket from the engine, I support the engine with a block of wood and floor jack then loosen the 3 , 15mm bolts in the upper mount then lower the engine to get that water pump bolt out
That piece across there, the water pump bolt goes through the round hole in that web that runs across the balance shaft / water pump part of the cover
Watch the video to familiarize yourself with the procedure
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/www....ad.php?t=60394
Oh, BTW there isn’t enough clearance to get the chain out if you don’t remove the cam phasers
That piece across there, the water pump bolt goes through the round hole in that web that runs across the balance shaft / water pump part of the cover
Watch the video to familiarize yourself with the procedure
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/www....ad.php?t=60394
Oh, BTW there isn’t enough clearance to get the chain out if you don’t remove the cam phasers
Last edited by Oldblue; 08-21-2020 at 09:58 AM. Reason: Housekeeping
#6
The 32 mm socket would be for the timing chain tensioner, I use my 15/16 th or and adjustable wrench for the camshaft , I agree with Donbrew, reuse the camshaft and crankshaft bolts. I cut the OEM timing cover gasket so I don’t have to remove the engine mount bracket from the engine, I support the engine with a block of wood and floor jack then loosen the 3 , 15mm bolts in the upper mount then lower the engine to get that water pump bolt out
That piece across there, the water pump bolt goes through the round hole in that web that runs across the balance shaft / water pump part of the cover
Watch the video to familiarize yourself with the procedure
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/www....ad.php?t=60394
Oh, BTW there isn’t enough clearance to get the chain out if you don’t remove the cam phasers
That piece across there, the water pump bolt goes through the round hole in that web that runs across the balance shaft / water pump part of the cover
Watch the video to familiarize yourself with the procedure
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/www....ad.php?t=60394
Oh, BTW there isn’t enough clearance to get the chain out if you don’t remove the cam phasers
Great. Thanks for the video link.
I’ll be taking the mount out.
i have a 15/16 wrench. I’m good there.
#7
The water pump tool keeps the chain and sprocket in place while the pump is removed. If you replace the pump while the chain is off there is no need to hold it.
DO NOT over tighten the pan bolts, it is very easy to deform the pan and cause leaks that can only be fixed with a new pan.
DO NOT over tighten the pan bolts, it is very easy to deform the pan and cause leaks that can only be fixed with a new pan.
#8
The water pump tool keeps the chain and sprocket in place while the pump is removed. If you replace the pump while the chain is off there is no need to hold it.
DO NOT over tighten the pan bolts, it is very easy to deform the pan and cause leaks that can only be fixed with a new pan.
DO NOT over tighten the pan bolts, it is very easy to deform the pan and cause leaks that can only be fixed with a new pan.
do not over tighten. Check. I’ll trust my torque wrenches to make sure I’m not over or under tightening anything. 👍
#9
The 15/16" wrench fits on flats on the camshaft to prevent its rotation.
I think some of the bolts are torque-angle if I remember correctly (crank, cam bolts?) so you may need an angle indicator of some sort.
I have replaced the crank and cam bolts, but you may not find them in stock at local dealers. There are different length bolts for VVT vs non-VVT engines.
When you rotate the engine to get the timing marks at a good spot DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE IN REVERSE.
The harmonic balancer bolt is very tight. How are you going to hold the balancer from spinning while unscrewing the bolt? I used an impact wrench which made the job easy without holding it.
The serpentine belt can be a pain to get off because the tensioner is tight against the inner fender well.
Buy a good brand of transmission pan gasket. Some cheap ones are just neoprene and don't have the metal stiffener inside, along with the ribs on the outside.
The leaking oil pressure sender is easier to replace if you remove the starter first. It's just above the starter.
The throttle body is VERY sensitive to moving it by hand and can strip gears inside. There are a bunch of threads on how to do it safely on the forum.
Steve
I think some of the bolts are torque-angle if I remember correctly (crank, cam bolts?) so you may need an angle indicator of some sort.
I have replaced the crank and cam bolts, but you may not find them in stock at local dealers. There are different length bolts for VVT vs non-VVT engines.
When you rotate the engine to get the timing marks at a good spot DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE IN REVERSE.
The harmonic balancer bolt is very tight. How are you going to hold the balancer from spinning while unscrewing the bolt? I used an impact wrench which made the job easy without holding it.
The serpentine belt can be a pain to get off because the tensioner is tight against the inner fender well.
Buy a good brand of transmission pan gasket. Some cheap ones are just neoprene and don't have the metal stiffener inside, along with the ribs on the outside.
The leaking oil pressure sender is easier to replace if you remove the starter first. It's just above the starter.
The throttle body is VERY sensitive to moving it by hand and can strip gears inside. There are a bunch of threads on how to do it safely on the forum.
Steve
#10