Timing chain kit arriving. Need advice
#11
The 15/16" wrench fits on flats on the camshaft to prevent its rotation.
I think some of the bolts are torque-angle if I remember correctly (crank, cam bolts?) so you may need an angle indicator of some sort.
I have replaced the crank and cam bolts, but you may not find them in stock at local dealers. There are different length bolts for VVT vs non-VVT engines.
When you rotate the engine to get the timing marks at a good spot DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE IN REVERSE.
The harmonic balancer bolt is very tight. How are you going to hold the balancer from spinning while unscrewing the bolt? I used an impact wrench which made the job easy without holding it.
The serpentine belt can be a pain to get off because the tensioner is tight against the inner fender well.
Buy a good brand of transmission pan gasket. Some cheap ones are just neoprene and don't have the metal stiffener inside, along with the ribs on the outside.
The leaking oil pressure sender is easier to replace if you remove the starter first. It's just above the starter.
The throttle body is VERY sensitive to moving it by hand and can strip gears inside. There are a bunch of threads on how to do it safely on the forum.
Steve
I think some of the bolts are torque-angle if I remember correctly (crank, cam bolts?) so you may need an angle indicator of some sort.
I have replaced the crank and cam bolts, but you may not find them in stock at local dealers. There are different length bolts for VVT vs non-VVT engines.
When you rotate the engine to get the timing marks at a good spot DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE IN REVERSE.
The harmonic balancer bolt is very tight. How are you going to hold the balancer from spinning while unscrewing the bolt? I used an impact wrench which made the job easy without holding it.
The serpentine belt can be a pain to get off because the tensioner is tight against the inner fender well.
Buy a good brand of transmission pan gasket. Some cheap ones are just neoprene and don't have the metal stiffener inside, along with the ribs on the outside.
The leaking oil pressure sender is easier to replace if you remove the starter first. It's just above the starter.
The throttle body is VERY sensitive to moving it by hand and can strip gears inside. There are a bunch of threads on how to do it safely on the forum.
Steve
i have already changed the crankcase seal and serpentine belt earlier this year. I had my daughter wedge a pry bar in there and used a 4’ power bar to get the balancer bolt loose. I’ll do that again
changed the pressure sending unit yesterday from the top since I didn’t want to drop the starter. I have little hands. But I have the socket and a short extension. It wasn’t easy. But it got done.
transmission fluid and filter is last on my list. I’ll check what I got before I start that.
I’ll watch the throttle body vids before I start that. It’s what I’m doing right now.
I read it’s a necessity to disconnect the negative terminal before hand. That’s no big. It’s been unplugged since I started on things yesterday.
biggest thing I dealt with yesterday was the stupid drain plug. Last service was done at a shop and either they torqued it to 100 ft lbs or it swelled. I tore it up getting it out. 🤪
#13
Got the throttle body cleaned. And the map sensor cleaned. Seems like I did more than that today too. But I forget. Lol.
Got the valve cover off. Definitely a loose chain. I didn’t think to check the chain when I did the valve cover gasket replacement earlier this month so when I got the cover off again I was so glad I was convinced to do this job by advisors on this forum.
there was a little oil at the threads of one plug when I took it out. I assume the new valve cover gasket didn’t seat well at the plug. Not in the body. Just at the threads. So I took a horrendous amount of time to clean the valve cover so the gasket will seat well on reinstall.
everything is drained and ready to get right into the chain tomorrow morning.
Got the valve cover off. Definitely a loose chain. I didn’t think to check the chain when I did the valve cover gasket replacement earlier this month so when I got the cover off again I was so glad I was convinced to do this job by advisors on this forum.
there was a little oil at the threads of one plug when I took it out. I assume the new valve cover gasket didn’t seat well at the plug. Not in the body. Just at the threads. So I took a horrendous amount of time to clean the valve cover so the gasket will seat well on reinstall.
everything is drained and ready to get right into the chain tomorrow morning.
#14
I just remembered what else I did today. I removed the front bumper cover and discovered every bracket has at least one catch broken and one is completely obliterated. Also have some retainers missing from the fender and wheel well areas where the bumper attaches, so I got those things ordered.
I also replaced both back wheel cylinders. One sprung a minor leak so I chose to go ahead and replace both so I won’t have to worry about them for another 150,000 miles or so.
I also replaced both back wheel cylinders. One sprung a minor leak so I chose to go ahead and replace both so I won’t have to worry about them for another 150,000 miles or so.
#15
With my cover off this engine looks a little strange. Does it appear to be tilted toward the firewall to you guys?
I just did all four mounts. That rear mount was difficult because I did the job then I couldn’t get the thing torqued right so I drove about 7 miles without proper torque to get an extension so I could torque it right. Maybe I should loosen and reset/retorque my front and rear mounts? Or am I just being paranoid?
I just did all four mounts. That rear mount was difficult because I did the job then I couldn’t get the thing torqued right so I drove about 7 miles without proper torque to get an extension so I could torque it right. Maybe I should loosen and reset/retorque my front and rear mounts? Or am I just being paranoid?
#19
maybe it’s just a woman thing. 😏