I am talking about that black "stick" near the timing chain. First, why this part is so vulnerable to wear? Is there any difference between the aftermarket and the stock one or is it exactly the same material and model? First time I had a slack chain it was because that part had failed and now after a couple of miles I hear my chain being slightly slack again. I suspect this guide is falling apart, one more time. What is the best solution? thanks

*no codes, just paying more attention to my engine sound, I like a quiet and smooth engine and realised the chain was starting to hit inside but the sound is not loud yet.

 

Sometimes it’s not the front guide but the top bolt , it backs out or breaks from vibration or over tightening.

to clarify, did you just replace that guide or the whole chain and guides, with tensioner and rear guide?
it is a common problem, resolved with a bolt , Dorman and ZZP have them now.

here are some links

https://www.google.ca/search?q=ecote...&client=safari

 

You replaced the timing set, drove a couple of miles, and now it's rattling again? Sounds like you didn't release the tensioner. Or didn't replace all the guides.

 

Or bought a kit on eBay with the old style tensioner.

 

Hi I bought everything, the whole set including tensionners guides chains and variable valve everything was torque to specifications but was done by a mechanic not by me. After a couple of miles there is a little knocking on the passenger side. I had to remove the cover for another repair (spark plugs) recently and I could have a look at the chain and it has a little slack but not much. Also as a side note, probably not related, unlikely I would think, but I tried to blow inside the evap thing on the driver side and could not have air pass thru that piece so I bought another one and will replace it as soon as I get the new one. My HHR had a fuel smell, I could not fill my tank without the fuel gun clicking at the gas station and the engine had a somewhat rough start. Also, every once in a while I remove the solenoids and clean them both with a towel to help the engine run more smoothly.

 

that is interesting I will check that out thanks.

 

Ok here is what I bought. I think the bolt was included. Is it that bolt in the middle of the first chain?

 

The larger part is the tensioner, the smaller part is the Oiler spigot.
This kit appears to be an off shore one , no fasteners including the cam and crankshaft bolts , which are TTY use once bolts.
why would you need to take the cover (valve cover?) off to change spark plugs?
you didn’t do the install, so then you can’t be 100% sure all bolts were torqued correctly. or that the tensioner was was deployed.
your statement “there was a little slack “ is a tip off , that either
A: the tensioner wasn’t deployed
B: the front guide upper bolt broke from being over torqued
C: the front guide bolt backed out from not being torqued at all

if you paid good money for this job , then your mechanic should stand behind his work and fix it!

as for the fuel problem crawl under the rear and look for corrosion on the vapour and fuel lines.

 

The EVAP purge valve is normally closed.

 

I had to remove the valve cover because I used a big socket that got stuck inside the hole :)

ok...... I have check under the rear and only see some normal layer of thin rust but nothing damaged to my novice eye. I might check again but my HHR doesn't lose any fluid. I think it looks decently good under.....