On my way home today, the tpms on the left rear stopped working and I get a message and idiot light on the dash. I tried to find a solution on this group, and I kept seeing that reprogramming the tpm's solves the problem for most. I don't have an air compressor handy, so I drive down to the local store and over inflate my ties by ten pounds. I had to reprogram my tires when I first got the car, so I know how to do it. Today when I started not even five seconds went by before it moved over to the front right. Then before I make it to the passenger side the car chirps and is ready for the right rear tire. Again not even five seconds passed. I get to set the tire pressure at the right rear and finally get to where all my problems started. I let air out of the tire and wait. Then after a while, I let even more air out. I then waited what seamed like three minutes and I guess the system timed out. I don't have time to redo this again today, but right now I have all dashes where the tire pressures are supposed to be at. I'll head over to a friends house tomorrow since he has a compressor and will be able to go through the reprogramming over and over a few times. Do you think this should solve my problems eventually or will I just be wasting my time and just need to get the dealership to look at it?

 

I get the rear driver's side one going out every so often. It displays dashes for that tire's pressure. I ignore it and it reconnects next time I start the car. I don't know if the problem is the TPMS or that I need an update. I'm going to continue to ignore it unless it gets worse. I seem to remember seeing somewhere that the dealer had an update for the computer that fixed the TPMS dropout thing.

 

I had the same thing happen to me once when when I was programming sensors. I finally realized it was because I had just driven vehicle and tires were hot causing PSI to flucuate. Waited for tires to cool and then I was able to program sensors.

 

Just got back home from the store when I started the reprogramming. Will try again tomorrow with the tires cooled off.

 

If only one set the -- then you should only have to turn the ignition off then start again. My RR does this fairly often, it does not matter which particular wheel is living there at the time. I have a lot of extra electronics & RF stuff in the car, a laptop with wifi, 2 Nextel cell phones, an EZ-Pass transponder, they all live between the RCDLR and the RR.

Your description of the TPMS reset does not sound correct, maybe I am reading it wrong. A Re-read of the procedure in your owner manual might be useful. You might have "hit the wall" on the battery life on that wheel, they do die.

 

If your car is still under warranty, the dealer will fix it for free. It may simply get retrained by their tool, or if that fails to work, they will pull the wheel off, take the tire partially off the rim and replace the sensor. My car is 2 years old and the dealer has replaced three of the original four under warranty. Yeah, I know it is annoying, but it is nice to be able to check your inflation pressure on demand when you drive especially when you run over something.

 

I hope it will go smoothly for you today. Please, let me know if you were able to complete this.

Michelle, Chevrolet Customer Service

 

Alright, I redid the reprogramming this evening and everything went normal until I got to the last tire. It would not register with the system. I redid the reprogramming three times, each with the same result. I take it that the sensor is dead on the right rear. I am due for new tires any ways, so I'll just go ahead and get some new sensors while I'm at it. Is there a certain kind I have to get or are they pretty much universal?

 

The batteries don't last forever like they want you to believe.

 

Lol, I love all of the ChevroletCustomerService responses on this forum. It should just be automated by not. "I will not offer any help at all, but I do hope you find a solution"