Traction Control
#21
Not necessarily - as per the previous postings in this thread, the solenoids is pure guesswork. The codes are needed to narrow down the cause, and if it turns out to be one of the solenoids, which one?
#23
I got two codes and a message. The two codes were P0300 and P0303.
I have already replaced the number three coil pack and spark plugs. I noticed a lot more oily build up where the tube from the crankcase enters above the throttle body. Cleaned the throttle body really well but still idles rough and the TC light comes on. The message was that the ABS system had been disabled but was not able to communicate with the reader. Sorry I have not been very responsive but I am a disable vet and only have full use of one of my hands so it takes me a while to do anything on the car and only when I am painfree enough to work on it. Could it be the fuel injectors/fuel rail and can I clean the injectors rather than replace them? I noticed a lot of corrosion on the rail itself. Thanks again.
I have already replaced the number three coil pack and spark plugs. I noticed a lot more oily build up where the tube from the crankcase enters above the throttle body. Cleaned the throttle body really well but still idles rough and the TC light comes on. The message was that the ABS system had been disabled but was not able to communicate with the reader. Sorry I have not been very responsive but I am a disable vet and only have full use of one of my hands so it takes me a while to do anything on the car and only when I am painfree enough to work on it. Could it be the fuel injectors/fuel rail and can I clean the injectors rather than replace them? I noticed a lot of corrosion on the rail itself. Thanks again.
#24
Glad you made it back. :)
With the P0300 and P0303, try swapping coils between the bad cylinders and the good ones to see if the problem moves with the swap. That will help pinpoint a bad coil.
The rough idle might clear up after a few drive cycles - the computer kind of needs to relearn the throttle plate position sometimes. Leaving the battery disconnected for a while (like 30 mins) might also help.
Cleaning the fuel injectors is possible when removed from the car - but is best left to a shop that specializes in it. Dealers and a lot of shops can also do a clean while they are on the car, but I don't know how much success that has. Generally the FI cleaners we buy over the counter don't do that much if you already have a problem - but they do help keep them clean sometimes if they are already kind of clean, and supposedly keep them from getting dirty.
I am not familiar with the ABS system at all - other than looking for bad connections at the hubs, there isn't much I can suggest you check. I think some posts recently referred to needing to replace a hub due to a problem with the ABS. You can try using the search function at the op of the page and maybe look for ABS and/or HUB.
Correction: nope, the search function won't work for 3-letter words - if you had the error message/code for the abs malfunction you could use that.
Does that help a bit man?
With the P0300 and P0303, try swapping coils between the bad cylinders and the good ones to see if the problem moves with the swap. That will help pinpoint a bad coil.
The rough idle might clear up after a few drive cycles - the computer kind of needs to relearn the throttle plate position sometimes. Leaving the battery disconnected for a while (like 30 mins) might also help.
Cleaning the fuel injectors is possible when removed from the car - but is best left to a shop that specializes in it. Dealers and a lot of shops can also do a clean while they are on the car, but I don't know how much success that has. Generally the FI cleaners we buy over the counter don't do that much if you already have a problem - but they do help keep them clean sometimes if they are already kind of clean, and supposedly keep them from getting dirty.
I am not familiar with the ABS system at all - other than looking for bad connections at the hubs, there isn't much I can suggest you check. I think some posts recently referred to needing to replace a hub due to a problem with the ABS. You can try using the search function at the op of the page and maybe look for ABS and/or HUB.
Correction: nope, the search function won't work for 3-letter words - if you had the error message/code for the abs malfunction you could use that.
Does that help a bit man?
Last edited by whopper; 04-08-2013 at 01:25 AM. Reason: added a correction for search items
#28
I finally had the car checked out while I was getting my 100,000 mile transmission service and the misfire is being caused by a lack of compression in #3 cylinder. Unfortunately they would not do a valve job because it is an aluminum block engine and it has long bolts. The compression is about half what it should be. (couldn't remember the exact numbers) Any suggestions other than finding a dealer as there is not one close to me? I thought about trying motor flush when I do my next oil change but I'm not sure if that is advisable. Is this a common problem?
#29
Motor flush will not help anything.
Did you try the Search tool at the top of the page looking for "Compression"?
Go read: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/code-po303-37708/
and https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ht=compression
Did you try the Search tool at the top of the page looking for "Compression"?
Go read: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/code-po303-37708/
and https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ht=compression
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