I can only image the 2008 and 2009 are close to the same, but do not know for sure. That is why I prefaced it with that this is for the 2009. I would say if all the pin out information I gave earlier jives down to the color and you get the proper voltage when testing the turn signals I would run with it. I bought a spare BCM for my own exploration and it is from a 2006 and so far all pin outs are the same for the functions I have investigated. BUT, my 2006 & 2009 BCMs certainly do have different part numbers.

The BCM is located as part of the cabin Fuse Box to the left of the front passengers feet behind the easily removed panel. Both connectors I referenced earlier are visible with the removal of the panel.

Yes, you want more load so the resistor does go in parallel and no wire cutting is necessary only tapping into. When I did a lamp change out on another vehicle years ago I think I ended up with 10 Ohm 20 Watt resistors. Don't know where to start on the HHR except to measure the original bulbs resistance or better yet the actual current it uses from the BCM. Start at a higher resistor value as I recall you were trying to reduce the vehicles current draw.

 

Not sure what the watt draw is on a 3157 bulb ..... so I'm starting with a 2.5 watt ceramic shunt per side.........recommended by the manufacture when one bulb is being replaced. Once I get things right I'll give a run down on the bulbs etc in case anyone else decides to go with LEDs.

 

The HHR feeds each corner of the vehicle from separate logic circuitry, so a shunt will have to be done per corner not "per side". These vehicles are not wired the same as older vehicles. My older vehicles use to have each side of the vehicle wired in parallel for the turn signals.

I measured the current of a 3157 bulb and it takes ~2 Amps on the turn signal filament. That's 27 Watts.

It will be interesting to hear what resistance the 2.5 watt shunt the manufacturer is recommending. With the 13.5 volt battery anything under 75 ohms will be exceeding the 2.5 watt rating, but that is for full time use. The turn signals are only on occasionally and then they are going on and off. So half or thereabout of the 75 ohms would work fine. Theoretically. Monitor the heat that the shunts put off.

 

Brain was going too fast.....meant per "front" side. Could be wrong about the shunt....made by Jam Strait and the part # is 625 LE......Once I get the fenderwell liner outta the way I'll have time to check it out like you mentioned.

 

Sounds like you’re on the right track. I found the manufacture’s web site and looked at the parts you mention and the wattage and resistance looks good - i.e. they know what they are doing. I have one question: Does that manufacture supply the shunts(resistors) for free, since their product causes the problem or do they require you to pay for them?

By the way you could just go down to Radio Shack and get the same thing.

I have one concern for you: Once you have the power resistors in hand you will find they are somewhat heavy. Do not just splice/tap them into the wiring and leave them "flapping". With the vibration of the vehicle it may be possible the wire leads will fatigue and break in the future. If they broke I do not see where this would cause any harm – just confusion. Affix them in some way so they do not move much - tape, etc..

 

LOL.... shunts are extra $.$$...not needed in all situations. The bulbs (4 led lite) that I installed in the front sidemarker locations were from Auto Zone and I knew they had the shunts. Both were from Jam Strait. And yes wire up and placement will be done as you recommended. I'll be off Wednesday from work and will git r done.

 

For your response