At the risk of coming in too late and joining an old topic. I want to say a couple of things.

First, this is my first post here, but I have been on many other forums.

Second, I am not surprised at, but not pleased either by, those bashing [and yes, you were bashing] posters that have a geniune concern about the fuses being loose.

Next, I would like to add to the conversation by documenting [as a Certified Technical Specialst but not a mechanic by trade] a symptom and the theory behind which I believe loose fuses is a concern.

Case: On Dec 27th I started experiencing a problem know across the web as the dreaded T/C off+ hard shifting problem. Basically, there is a light on the right side of the warning display bar that shows a tire tread with T/C inside. When it illuminates, it means there is a problem with the Traction Control system and it is OFF. For some reason, when this is happening, it is accompanied by hard shifting, which almost feels like you ran over something. Shutting the car off reportedly resets the system and it works until you hit a bump or something. Then it starts happening again. After experiencing this problem for a solid 10 days and having it occur on EVERy trip no matter how short, I was researching the problem over the weekend and on Monday, I found more than one site citing loose fuses as a possible fix. I checked and nearly every fuse and relay was loose. I pushed them all in and by cooincidence [ya right] the problem has not returned. I have made about 20 trips without the slightest hint of the problem returning.

Now for the theory.
A loose connection is a tentative electrical bond and the tendency toward ionization of the two metals is high. The act of the two metals not forming a tight connection causes small sparks which is what causes the ionization. This creates a thin film of ionized particles coating the two metals. These particles make poor conductors owing to their lack of free electrons and even though the metals are touching, they may no longer be conducting well. This causes more heat and less current. Since relays require a certain current level to activate, they may not activate in this situation. It doesn't take a complete loss of contact to loose electrical contact. In my 35 years as an electronics engineer, I have encountered thousands of 'dirty' electrical connections. Anyone that has heard static when adjusting the volume on their stereo, TV, etc. is experiencing this problem.

Lastly, manufacturers are not known for their willingness to publicize all of the problems their products are having, especially if it is 1. thought to be isolated or 2. May give them a bad name. Electrical problems are one area where is seems easy to dismiss as user customizations [a common dodge among car dealerships] or random problems. Stating that GM hasn't issued a recall as the reason you feel a problem isn't major is not well supported because of the issues I have just pointed out.

I hope you take from this a couple of things.

1. I consider my problem solved by the 'loose fuse fix' - at least for now.
2. Just because a fuse can't fall all the way out doesn't mean it being loose is "OK."
3. perhaps we could all be a little more civil toward one another.
4. Have a great 2009

Ken

 

to put the nay-sayers to rest, I have proven the theory of loose fuses causing stereo/sounds non-op.

I bought my 06 15+ months ago.

One day while driving home, I stopped at a gas station, and when I returned to my vehicle, I had no interior sounds. No chimes. No sound from radio. Just silence.

I got home, and searched on THIS site, and found the "Loose Fuses" thread.



I went out to my car, pushed in all the fuses, and the problem was solved. I came on to the site to post my joy and excitement, and thank those who contributed. My contribution was shot down by a few members who chalked it up as "it only needed to be reset"

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ht=loose+fuses


well, yesterday it happened again. But this time, I decided to follow *their* theory.

I drove about 20 miles. I turned the radio on and off several times, triggered the volume settings, and got nothing.

I then came to a red light, turned the ignition off, removed the key, and even opened the door and closed it. Re-fired the engine, and again...no sound at all. No chimes. No sound from radio. Just silence.

I drove another 2 miles, pulled over in to a side street, and turned the car OFF. I then re-started the engine again, and still....nothing. No chimes. No sound from radio. Just silence.

I removed the right-side fuse panel cover next to the console, and pressed in all of those fuses. I then re-started the car. No results. No chimes. No sound from radio. Just silence.

So I exited the vehicle, opened the hood, and removed the main fuse panel cover. I proceeded to press down on each and every fuse/relay, and then re-covered the fuse box, and shut the hood.

I inserted the key in the ignition, and I had Chimes. I had sound from radio. I had no more silence.

Loose fuses folks. They happen. easy fix. ignore the nay-sayers. Believe those who have experienced this problem. it's a quick fix...next time I wont waste my time with *their* theories. I have proven my own.

 

I'm glad you think that's the problem and that you corrected it. But you proved VERY LITTLE.

You have a 2 piece fuse box. When you pressed down all the fuses, you reseated the pins to the connectors from part A to part B. And that has been proven by GM. There is a write up on it.

All you are doing is applying a band-aid approach.

Try pulling a fuse or relay out about a 1/4 inch....which in most instances, is far more than the lid will allow ( notice that the lid has projections under the diagram chart to prevent the fuse from more than about 1/8 inch movement). Then apply a multimeter to the fuse. I bet you have voltage.....which would disprove the loose fuse theory.

My point for being persistant in this is........people believe the loose fuse problem and it only covers up a more serious problem covered by warranty....repair or replace the fuse box.

26,000 miles....NEVER reseated a fuse, yet.

Oh and I forgot to say......the underhood fuse box does not have a fuse or relay that directly support the radio....with the exception, perhaps, of the BCM's. However, if they were indeed the cause of the problem, you would have much more electrical problems than JUST the radio.

 

71k miles on it...did it only twice.
and like I said...the BCM which controls the "sounds" in the car(chime, flasher, radio) I had no sounds...at all.

I inspected the fuse box today...all I found were a whole bunch of fuses that were properly seated in their slots, where-as yesterday, many of them had walked UP enough that I could depress them.

The fuse box was replaced under warranty at the dealer by the last owner for the same problem, according to the work order history at the dealer.

I've put 36k on it since last year when it first happened.

I've got my proof...that's all I need.

if it persists, and/if I discover there is more to it, I will surely post, as my whole goal is to help others...without scaring them in to going to a dealer and spending money.

warranty claims...that's a different issue...but many of us year-one owners lost our wimpy warranties a LOOONG time ago.

 

You can make a bad knee feel better by wearing a brace, but it'll never be fixed until you see a doctor. 71k on mine too and I've never encountered an electrical problem, and I only pushed in my fuses once back when SoCal started this thread, which for me was about 70500 miles ago. I drive on some of the worst back country and brick roads in the state too.

I'm still putting my money on a sketchy BCM or power spike that's causing a fault requiring a reboot of the module a few times.

 

anyone have a fuse box diagram. my power steering keeps going out

 

Look under the lid, it shows everything there

 

Page 5-83 and 5-84 in the 2006 owners manual.

Click the following if you need a book for reference.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/general-hhr-4/online-owners-manual-3074/

 

replaced the fuse (#1 on diagram) but no help.

finally had the dealership install new EPS motor ($104 + $120 labor + 1.5hrs) = fixed power steering!

tried calling Chevy for possible customer courtesy refund (of part or labor or both) but no luck.

 

You need to contact the head of Chevrolet Customer Service. His name is Ben Dover.