Vibration driving over 45 mph when I make a right turn... & Frustration
#22
[QUOTE=donbrew;497780] If you do not know what you are doing with brakes hire someone who does, not the guy next door who has a jack and a socket set!!!!!!!!!
[QUOTE]
It's true.
Always a priority would trust a specialist. But only an expert-tested. Man you can trust.
As I understood when communicating with members of this forum are good professionals do not often see in the U.S.. In Mexico, a good specialist even rarer.
We must not forget that the big professional asks a lot of money.
Check the brakes - a simple operation, for which you should not overpay.
Step by step:
1. Raise the car with the jack;
2. Remove the wheel;
3. Nut (perhaps there bolt) located in the bottom of the Brake Caliper. Unscrew its open end wrench. Release bracket Brake Caliper;
4. Bracket - this is such a metal frame, there are brake pads. Bracket easily rises to the top of your bare hands (as a bow of a padlock);
5. Next you do not need any tools, only your fingers. Subchain brake shoe with your fingers and pull it off. Will be a little messy, but it's not a problem. Brake pad is associated parts - tin strip and a progress bar "creaking" (a small metal trick). Do not lose them when going to mount the brake shoe back to bring back into place;
6. Inspect the condition of pads visually. Turn her butt and look uniform stitching.;
7. If the brake shoe rubbed unevenly - braking system must be repaired;
8. Not simply replace the brake pads. The rotor has a curve and it will ruin the new brake shoe. Replace the rotor, but cheaper running tap its surface. This operation should be done ONLY SPECIALIST! home to produce it is not possible;
9. Prior to the return of brake pads will evaluate rubber parts Brake Caliper. They should not have gaps and cracks. Wipe the dirt carefully with a tissue to s top inspection.
My HHR I bought in the U.S. in New Jersey. I have had the same problem with the brakes. Curves rotors, brake pads curves. I spoke with the owners of various American cars. A similar problem occurs frequently. One devil knows that the Americans are doing with their brakes and a relay them to a terrible state. I think to blame those "experts" poorly performing their duties and are subject to risk lives of drivers.
Good luck.
[QUOTE]
It's true.
Always a priority would trust a specialist. But only an expert-tested. Man you can trust.
As I understood when communicating with members of this forum are good professionals do not often see in the U.S.. In Mexico, a good specialist even rarer.
We must not forget that the big professional asks a lot of money.
Check the brakes - a simple operation, for which you should not overpay.
Step by step:
1. Raise the car with the jack;
2. Remove the wheel;
3. Nut (perhaps there bolt) located in the bottom of the Brake Caliper. Unscrew its open end wrench. Release bracket Brake Caliper;
4. Bracket - this is such a metal frame, there are brake pads. Bracket easily rises to the top of your bare hands (as a bow of a padlock);
5. Next you do not need any tools, only your fingers. Subchain brake shoe with your fingers and pull it off. Will be a little messy, but it's not a problem. Brake pad is associated parts - tin strip and a progress bar "creaking" (a small metal trick). Do not lose them when going to mount the brake shoe back to bring back into place;
6. Inspect the condition of pads visually. Turn her butt and look uniform stitching.;
7. If the brake shoe rubbed unevenly - braking system must be repaired;
8. Not simply replace the brake pads. The rotor has a curve and it will ruin the new brake shoe. Replace the rotor, but cheaper running tap its surface. This operation should be done ONLY SPECIALIST! home to produce it is not possible;
9. Prior to the return of brake pads will evaluate rubber parts Brake Caliper. They should not have gaps and cracks. Wipe the dirt carefully with a tissue to s top inspection.
My HHR I bought in the U.S. in New Jersey. I have had the same problem with the brakes. Curves rotors, brake pads curves. I spoke with the owners of various American cars. A similar problem occurs frequently. One devil knows that the Americans are doing with their brakes and a relay them to a terrible state. I think to blame those "experts" poorly performing their duties and are subject to risk lives of drivers.
Good luck.
#23
UPDATE:
Well, the rotors have been re-surfaced, the brake pads replaced, calipers & brake pins inspected, and also the sway bar bushings were replaced (older look acceptable). At this time, my HHR brakes better and smooth as before... But still the damn vibration when I´m turning to the right and the RrRrRrRrRrRrR/Howling noise still! My last shot is for CV axle...
Well, the rotors have been re-surfaced, the brake pads replaced, calipers & brake pins inspected, and also the sway bar bushings were replaced (older look acceptable). At this time, my HHR brakes better and smooth as before... But still the damn vibration when I´m turning to the right and the RrRrRrRrRrRrR/Howling noise still! My last shot is for CV axle...
#24
I spent all the weekend to continue to fix this damn vibration. At this time:
- Hub bearing replaced on driver´s side (no solution)
- Resurfaced rotors and new brake pads installed (brakes better as before, but still the issue)
- Sway bar bushing replaced. No success.
- CV axle replaced on driver´s side (no solution) I performed this task myself this weekend...
But, it seems that we have a winner:
I went to a tire shop to allign the front and they told me that wasn´t possible... I Began to suspect then that the direction components can cause this. I tried to move at 3 & 9 direction both wheels and guess what... There´s play and also a clunk noise heard on the passenger side!! Then, there´s that vibration when I make a turn! Inner tie rods???? what do you think?
- Hub bearing replaced on driver´s side (no solution)
- Resurfaced rotors and new brake pads installed (brakes better as before, but still the issue)
- Sway bar bushing replaced. No success.
- CV axle replaced on driver´s side (no solution) I performed this task myself this weekend...
But, it seems that we have a winner:
I went to a tire shop to allign the front and they told me that wasn´t possible... I Began to suspect then that the direction components can cause this. I tried to move at 3 & 9 direction both wheels and guess what... There´s play and also a clunk noise heard on the passenger side!! Then, there´s that vibration when I make a turn! Inner tie rods???? what do you think?
#25
I went to a tire shop to allign the front and they told me that wasn´t possible... I Began to suspect then that the direction components can cause this. I tried to move at 3 & 9 direction both wheels and guess what... There´s play and also a clunk noise heard on the passenger side!! Then, there´s that vibration when I make a turn! Inner tie rods???? what do you think?
#28
I spent all the weekend to continue to fix this damn vibration. At this time:
- Hub bearing replaced on driver´s side (no solution)
- Resurfaced rotors and new brake pads installed (brakes better as before, but still the issue)
- CV axle replaced on driver´s side (no solution) I performed this task myself this weekend...
Best-O-Luck ,
#29
ANY/EVERY shop that I have ever worked at or dealt with will say "we cannot align this front end"..... "because (insert part name here) is loose/out of specs it will cost you $XXX to fix it".
You CANNOT align a front end that has worn out parts. Should you do that the very second that the vehicle is moved from the instruments the alignment WILL change.
I am beginning to think this thread is
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1993s10guy
Brakes | Suspension | Shocks | Struts
7
04-23-2015 07:26 AM
Clevelandhhrss
SS Specific Service Issues/Repairs
9
01-11-2013 12:22 PM
Zagohhr
Problems/Service/Repairs
8
09-01-2010 05:08 PM