Would you like to share the creditable source that supplied this info and where it can be found? It would help support the statment.

 

Nope. Kinda like you with your job info. The information is out there, do any search. I'll trust my 30 years of experience.

 

Just as I thought

Defective pads....Bent pads? Not a common thing...Generally defective linings lead to uneven wear ansd groved rotors not warp.

Abnormal Brake Caliper Action..... Too much pressure??? Inconsistent pressure???? Never saw this anywhere from a credible source.

Excessive Heat.... Do you really understand how much heat would be needed? If it gets hot enough to warp cast iron the rotor and caliper not to mention the bearing would normally be toast. Rotors can take a lot of heat oftem more than the seals, fluid and lub can take. Think about that.

Physical Damage....Dropping a car????? you have to be joking. If you hit a brick wall you can break a rotor and damage other things. But to drop it off a jack stand Odds are you would bend a steel wheel long before you damage a cast iron rotor. I have removed wheels destroyed by concrete curbs that have dented all 4 wheel flat on one side and damaged the tires with no effect to the rotors. Yes in some odd case it might do some damage but really think about this one before you proclaim it.

Hubs bearings and rotors in daily use take extreem abuse and hold up well. Damage can happen but usually it has to be pretty bad to do enough to hurt a rotor and it will damage a lot of other parts before it gets to it. Damaged control arms wheels and other parts will also be in play.

Damage Hub... I will give you half credit here. A bad hub or bearing usually created wobble and RTV Rotor Thickness Variation. This is not warp but uneven wear that can cause an issue.

Warping Cast Iron is not a easy thing as it will not take much delection till it cracks. It is a never say never deal but true cases are very rare and misdiagnosed by people some with in some cases 30 year of some kind of experience.

I have done searches and the kind of facts you have presented are often by no name people on the web. I can't find a MFG or engineer that will back up much of what you posted. It is best to keep to we sites of companies or people with the proper credibility to give the info.

Like I have said you are disageeing with me you are disagreeing with the MFG and engineers that know more than either of us.

The Stop Tech web site used Caroll Smiths tech info. He has a extensive automotive background from Ford to Ferrari. He was one of the best chassie guys around. His books still are best sellers today. His work was from street cars to the GT 40 program and even into F1. Neddless to say a very smart man and I am not affraid to post his name as a source.

Here is his first part on warped issues.


Myth # 1 – BRAKE JUDDER AND VIBRATION IS CAUSED BY DISCS THAT HAVE BEEN WARPED FROM EXESSIVE HEAT.

The term "warped brake disc" has been in common use in motor racing for decades. When a driver reports a vibration under hard braking, inexperienced crews, after checking for (and not finding) cracks often attribute the vibration to "warped discs". They then measure the disc thickness in various places, find significant variation and the diagnosis is cast in stone.

When disc brakes for high performance cars arrived on the scene we began to hear of "warped brake discs" on road going cars, with the same analyses and diagnoses. Typically, the discs are resurfaced to cure the problem and, equally typically, after a relatively short time the roughness or vibration comes back. Brake roughness has caused a significant number of cars to be bought back by their manufacturers under the "lemon laws". This has been going on for decades now - and, like most things that we have cast in stone, the diagnoses are wrong.

With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification, in more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s – one of the most intense brake development program in history - I have never seen a warped brake disc. I have seen lots of cracked discs, (FIGURE 1) discs that had turned into shallow cones at operating temperature because they were mounted rigidly to their attachment bells or top hats, (FIGURE 2) a few where the friction surface had collapsed in the area between straight radial interior vanes, (FIGURE 3) and an untold number of discs with pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces - sometimes visible and more often not. (FIGURE 4)

In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.

In order to understand what is happening here, we will briefly investigate the nature of the stopping power of the disc brake system.

The rest is on http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

It is a good read and informitive to those willing to learn.

To all out there use only creditable known sources for your info on this topic. The brake companies all have good info in their tech on how to use and diagnose a problem. The last thing they want is a unhappy customer that blaimes their rotors or pads for issues. They want to sell you more in the future and only will give you the best info possible. THey all also have nearly the same info on this topic too.

Misinformation on the web is the biggest brake problem. Too many never learn what really is going on because of bad or misleading info from unreliable sources.

 

That is ok with me!

You have wasted enough time already.

 

I like people to know more than just one sided information if those that sell brakes always stating their brakes are not the problem, it's the user or other parts, but never their brakes. You keep ignoring one question some ask you. You can argue a creditable sourse all you want, you sound like the vendors I deal with daily. You can call it wasted time all you want, it was a comeback I expected from you.

 

I thought you were done?

The info present speaks for it's self. If a creditable source is not inportant to you that is fine as that is your choice.

Too often the other side is filled with myth and misinformation that just continues to cloud the truth. Most of this is unnamed info.

If information is good and accurate then it is worth putting a name to it.

Contrary to your view the brake companies do know a thing or two on proper use and install of brakes and they want happy customers. They all have not gone together to conspire to make sure we all have brake issue. Some are but most are not even OE suppliers working with Auto MFG.

The better they can get your brakes to work the more likely they are that you will buy their product again. Nothing complicated here. Customer are happy because their brakes work mechanics are happy with no come back and vendors are happy with no warranties.

If their product fails the end customer the chance is they have lost a customer.

 

I am done with the OP's original question. All manufactors are in business for one thing, to make money. Most make both good and bad things. In my job I see where quality control works and it doesn't. I sign on new vendors and blacklist others for the way they handle business, even warranty work.

Why not shed some light on where you work so we can see where your "expertise" comes from....

 

What you or I do for a living has no bearing on what is causing the brake issues or how to resolve them.

If you feel the need work history then you go first and I will be glad to return in kind!

 

Easy, 20 years in the transportation career field in the AF. Yes, vehicle maintenance. 5 years at Advance Auto parts (ASC Certified Parts Pro). Past 7 years maintaining a fleet of vehicles in my agency (8,100 currently in my state). This includes daily maintenance reports and a lot of vendor visits to review work being perfomed. This also includes annual NAPA courses to keep up with maintenance issues, all which I really enjoy, except emissions, that crap gives me a headache. Plus I've been doing my own work since 16 unless it was warranty work. Not just oil changes, but a couple were very extensive builds.

 

For what it's worth, I just replaced the original pads and rotors at just over 69,000 miles....pedal was pulsating and steering wheel shaking side to side.