For me...

First, make sure you have a clean mounting surface for the rotors.

Install pads.

Once everything is back together, press brake pedal to get pressure back in the lines. Start motor, and press a few more times to make sure pressure is there before putting into gear.

I went on a back road and did several stops from about 30 mph with the windows down. I was looking for brake feel and any noise.

After that, I tried to not do any hard braking (in Atlanta, a challenge enough) for the first few hundred miles.

I've got about 4K on the new pads/rotors and still feels good. Although I have noticed the black anti corrosion "paint" on the NAPA rotors has already mostly disappeared.

I'm sure others will have their own methods.

 

I've always seated brakes in by driving down a long stretch of road at 50 to 55 and lightly applying the brakes lightly and releasing them several times. This slowly brings the rotor and pad temperatures up. I try to run through at least 2 heat cycles. Then drive long enough without using the brakes to allow them to cool. I try not to come to a complete stop so there is no chance for anything from the pads to stick to the rotor.

Rotors will rust very easily in damp weather and they will rust where the brake pads hold the moisture. If the vehicle isn't used for a couple of days the buildup can be significant. Often, if a vehicle sits for several months, the pads will be rusted to the rotors. A little rust will cause brake pulsing too! Sometimes the light brake application described above will buff the rust off the rotors.

 

I have found that ANYONE can srcew up anything, especially brakes. That is why I do all my own repairs-upgrades. I only use an air tool to remove the lugnuts. Never to put them back on. Does this make a difference? To me it does, and that is all that is important, as my brakes work great. Also, the use of a quality "pad compound" will eleminate squealing. I removed the stock rotors and pads (nothing wrong,still have them) and replaced them with EBC dimpled and slotted rotors and Bendix ceramic pads. IMHO bedding is extreemly important. There are as many ways to do it as there are arses in the world, and all do pretty much the same thing. One thing to remember, the pads ARE in contact with the rotors anytome the pads are in the calipers, so that means all the time. So going down the road, the pads maintain a certian amount of heat in the rotor. If there is a slight wobble, a smooth, firm stop will usually stop it in my vehicle. There can and usually will be times when deposits can cause annoying problems. In extreeme cases, simply "dressing" the rotors with an abrasive disc on a cordless drill can clear up most problems.

 

 

Hi PM, to the forums!!

That probably means that your rear brakes have not been properly adjusted in a long time, if ever.

 

 

The rear brakes may not need replacement. They haven't been used in years, so they're probably in great shape.

The issue is that the self-adjusters don't work very well. After a while, the front brakes are doing 100% of the stopping. They wear out prematurely, and they overheat from the severe use, and warp the rotors.

 

Just adjust the rear brakes first. If the problem persists, then consider replacing the rotors.

 

It could be
A... a tie rod end
B... Lower Control Arm rear bushing
C... loose LCA rear bushing bolt
D... the rear brakes are out of adjustment
E... a ball joint
F... the upper motor mount is shot.

I’m thinking as mentioned above ... D
However check the other culprits

 

I put this set on my 2011 HHR . Best move i've done . No brake problems since and
live in hilly Pittsburgh .
Power Stop Z23 Brake Kit - Rotors & Pads - FREE SHIPPING!