Just spoke to the guy whose shop my race car is at. He is a car genius. We talked about the rotor problem, and he said the only thing that causes rotors to warp is overheating. He also said that brake dust shields would only make the problem worse by retaining heat.

 

That GM fix is not a dust shield, it goes on the in side. A dust shield goes on the outside to keep the brake dust off of the pretty rims.

 

Thanks for the correction. How does the GM shield work? If it is on the in side, then it is only protecting half the rotor.

I am anxious to solve this problem and would love for this to be the solution.

 

presumably it keeps mud and stuff off. check out the ChevrMgr's recall and service bulletin area, I'm pretty sure there are pictures included there. And in my recollection most cars with disc brakes that I have seen do have the shield, I think GM was corner cutting.

 

also keeps cold water from splashing hot rotors....

 

If you want to solve your issues learn what is really going on. You are dealing with the symtom and not fixing the real problem.

Check out the training video's here http://www.raybestos.com/wps/portal/raybestos.

This was done by people who make brakes and know what solves the issues. It is not bad pads, cheap rotors, hot rotors or many of the other claimed reasons. Watch all their info and learn the truth. I too used to have a lot of brake issues till I learned what the real problems were. I followed the proper way to address it and no longer have rotor issues.

This is not a I am right you are wrong thing here. I just see too many people including long time mechanics going down the wrong road and have the same problems over and over again often putting blaime on the symtom and never solving the issue that caused it.

IF you don't want to take Raybestos word check out many of the other name brand web sites that will give you the same information. Also Carrol Smith the long time racer and mechanic info on brakes is posted on several web sites. He spells out the same truths on brake issues and dispells the false ideas many good people have.

This is not just an HHR issue many new cars are doing the same things the HHR is doing. I see it on many web sites on many different brands and models. Some even with large Brembo packages.

You can either learn from the companies that have the answers or keep having the same issue.

My Sonoma and T bird both had issues with the rotors and the dealer would turn the rotors or replace them only to have the issue return. I was had a guy teach me what the real issues were and backed it up from the many MFG tech info. From that point on I never had the issue of warped rotors again.

As of today I can say I many not be easy on my SS brakes but I do not have rotor issues. Am I a better driver, No! Is my HHR made of better stuff... No! Do I drive it easy or just highway miles...No! Did I seat in the pads and drove it easy for the first 300-400 miles, Yes! Does it hae the proper run out for the front hubs.. yes!

The video's are free and all it will cost you is your time. I wish many would take the time to see what is going on and how to fix it and the so called warp issue would go away. Lateral runout is very critcal in todays cars and no one hardly ever checks it.

What have you got to lose just by checking out the tech info? Brakes MFG have much more at stake if you are not happy with their products and they are going to give you the best info on how to install and solve problems with your brake system. The info on how to properly install and solve the issues do not cost you any money and do not make them more profitable untill you wear out their product and buy from them again because you were happy with their products performance.

Just a note on the one post Pads are not in full contact with the rotors anymore. Too much drag that is not good for MPG. Note most Calipers will retract with pressure a little to take the pressure off. This is why when you get surface rust on a rotor after washing a car it does not make noise till you step on the brake.

The sheilds he is speaking of from GM are on the back side of the rotor and are not the dust wheel sheilds and are more to keep mud, stones and water out from under the pads and giving you better pad to rotor contact unter intitial contact. The covers are not a bad thing and you should do them but they will not solve your rotor issue.

Cold water has no effect on a hot rotor other than steamr or we all would be having issues here in Ohio tonight!

The dust sheild for the wheels can create more heat and cause brake fade under heavy use but not warp. They are worse than hub cabs or solid steel wheels that are still used on many cars and trucks.

 

Is there a Cliff's Notes version of the conclusion? A couple of brake guys I've discussed this with said that it's bad to do really heavy braking and then come to a stop and hold the pads against the super hot rotors. This embeds pad material on the rotor and changes the metal in that spot (and leaves a high spot).

I have tried to avoid doing that and so far haven't had a problem although warped rotors may act different than a high spot from embedding.

 

Read the link from hyperv6 about break in, the people you are talking to are giving only part of the story. When breaking in do not come to a complete stop, holding the hot pads against the hot rotor. In other words BREAK IN CORRECTLY, not the way almost everybody does.

 

Both you and donbrew are correct.

The material coats the rotor evenly during break in and prevents the embeded material after a hot stop.

One hard hot stop can leave material in one spot and create the pulse that so many complain about after one stop. This leads many to believe it is warped when it really is not. It will feel very similar. the same for lateral runout. It wears the rotor uneven and creates the same effect as a warped rotor. THe pedal will pulse but the rotor is worn uneven and not warped. A cut will clean it up but if the hub is out of spect the next rotor will wear ineven again. Hence the repeat issues many have.

Many good shops have started to cut rotors on the car to true the rotor to the hub and remove the runout of the hib assembly.

Sometimes it may go away but often it can get worse.


Sorry for the long plea but the answer is out there and I just want many to read it and solve their issues. I think 95% of the complains would go away just with the correct information was followed.

 

I have been trying to find a shop that can cut my rotors on the car without any luck here in NYC. Last week I had my R1 Concept rotors, with under 7k miles, cut and when we reinstalled them the vibration was worse than before. We then put new flat Centrix rotors on and the car is fine (for now). I did check the runout on the hub and there was none. Sadly I did not think to check it again when the rotors were back on the car. But I had done this last year and the runout was within specs.

The only difference now is that I did not do the brakes myself this time. I had it done at a shop that my family has all been using for years and they stand behind their work. They are aware of my problem and if/when the vibration comes back, they will have to work with it.

I did watch the training videos and they are very interesting and informative-a must see for all of us. Thanks for the info and referral, hyperv6.