I'm getting ready to replace my pads & rotors. Since moving to Atlanta, stopping with the brakes continuously applied, has cause the pads to stay in contact with the disc causeing uneven cooling and lead to them warping. I'm at 47K miles right now, the shake has been going on for a few though miles though. Still early, but not awfully bad in terms of mileage. Other that the new tires installed 500 miles ago, no one but me has ever put the wheels on and off other than when they were installed at the factory. So if my torque wrench caused this, then the rotors are indeed crap. Cause I've been doing my own wrenching for 30 years. This is the first set of warped rotors I've ever had in who knows how many tire rotations, changes, etc I've done over that time.

 

We are looking to buy a LTZ Nox in the future.
With sales so strong right now it is the worst tine for a deal. Once the expand prodution suppliers will grow and better deals will come.

I just drove one of GM's hydrogen fuel cell Nox. It was nice as it was electric with weigt penalty of the big batteries. Instat torque with the electric motors. I woul spin the tires like my SS.

 

Please read Bedix and Raybestos web sites tech info. The heat and cooling are not the isseue uneven wear is, they explain this well. Follow what they say to check and it will solve the issues.

How things were done 30 years ago do not apply anylonger.

 

So tell me how 100 ft lbs of tq with a torque wrench from 30 years ago is different today? Did measurements change? Are lug nuts different? Wheel studs? Lug wrenches? Looks to me the same basic principle still exists, only nicer tools to do it with. Heating and cooling does affect rotors. I've read those links, alone with the NAPA course they were involved with in the training I took last year.

To tell anyone that the only way to warp a rotor is over torqueing is silly. But I would not expect any more from those that sell brakes. Kinda like Toyota saying a shim and zip ties fix the SUA problems they have.

 

Nothing wrong on the torque you are using. Keep it up. My comment on 30 years ago was just to imply brake service has change in many ways and it is not like it used to be. Many people treat it as such but this often leads to problems such as judder and even ABS issue.

You are incorrect on the heat an cooling idea. If that were true I would have a warped rotor with every cold ice puddle I hit in the winter. I deal with most major brake mfg and have been though training with most of them. They all say the same thing. The links I have posted are just good examples from reliable MFG to help are well done and say the same thing the others say.

You may disagree with them but it does a brake company no good to have a unhappy customer. The tell you what do to prevent issues so you you will be happy and buy there product again. The last thing I want is a customer that is unhappy and I will tell mine do the proper things to get the best service as I want them back.

Many claim poor qualty rotors but no one can prove it or post a qualified person who can show it. The only people I see claiming this are people with so call warped rotors on web sites. If they were truly that bad the after market would be making a upgrade to correct this issue. Many MFG offer inproved Buick and Ford Intakes that crack intakes and FOrd V6 heads that heads that crack.

Not everone has issues. Often it is the same people and the same vehicle with the repeat the same issues while other like models have no issues.

If you want to fix the issue follow the proper advice the MFG advise. If not then just keep doing what you are doing. You are not disagreeing with me but the people who know more about this than you or I. This info is not something I made up I only provided the links to it.

I used to think many of the same things on brakes Like you and had issues. I used to autorcross a Sonoma pick up a vehicle well know for brake issues. Autocross I think you could agree is hard on brakes much harder than my already hard street driving. But once I learned what was going on my rotor issues went away. To this point 4 cars later I have still not had brake rotor issues since.

If you don't want advice then just ignore it. I just hope posting these links will help solve someones issues like it did for me.

At this point with repeated rotor issues what have you got to lose?

 

You stated it has all changed in 30 years, looks to me like taking a wheel on/off is still about the same.

Funny how only the brake manufactors disagree with rotors warping due to heat.

Take a rotor, put a micrometer on it, if it's true, it should be only .004-.009 out of round. If not, it's warped.

No one can claim bad rotors. It's more like the company not back up its product. Bendix is the worse I have ever dealt with. They could care less. COnsidering I average 100+ brake jobs a week, have a little knowledge with them.

Your right, not everyone has issues. You also don't see every Camary running down the road at 120+ with the driver screaming their heads off.

I know how my brakes are treated. I'm not asking GM or anyone to replace them. But after many of my own personal vehilces that I personally took the tires on/off un tires were installed and only have had one, yes one, that ever ended up with warped rotors, they are not the best on the market, another reason I won't bother GM with it. I know brakes can warp under continous bouts with heat. I should have gotten at least 70k miles with them, but I guess I'll settle with just under 50K.

We can agree to disagree all night. But I'm not the person that only deals with this type of stuff once ever 4 years or so. I average about $50K in maintenance costs every month at work. Just this past monday I had to drive 4.5 hours to Savannah to deal with a "shop" that installed a used cluster in a 04 Venture, and they wondered why I was hot when it rolled in with 38K on it and can out with 101K on it. Needles to say, it got a new cluster, programmed to the correct mileage. I deal with enough shops/vendors/manufactors enough to only enforce my care to turn my own wrench. Vendor web sites never show the vendor as bad. But lots show their ugly face on warranty issues.

So you can say I'm wrong all you like. But you can never prove I'm wrong. Bendix might agree with you, I can find literally thousands that will agree with me. All wrench turners that know what they are talking about.

I'm done here.

 

I am not going to argue here. I will let the information speak for itself.

The accurate info is there and if someone want it to solve their issues they can use it. It solved my brake issues and I hope it can help someone elses.

Good luck in solving your rotor issues.

 

Heres something to look at....since these are hat rotors and they generally come loose when wheels are removed for like say a rotation....and the inside tend to rust up and collect all sorts of crap, whats to say some of this garbage, and it wouldn't take much, is falling behind the rotor(between rotor and hub) and placing the rotor of square to the hub?
On a new tire balancing machine it was demo'd what something like a 1 dollar bills thickness can do to the balance of a tire because its not setting square to the balancer hub...an actual dollar was used and it threw the balance for a loop! Incredible seeing how close to centerline it was.....something to consider...........

 

Yep! Some things on some models are much more critical today and cause a lot of problems today.

Hub centric issues on many aftermarket wheels, On the car balancing and rotor lathes being recomended etc.

Many people just push the caliper in and not open the bleeder to remove the caliper. Today they are recomending you need to open the bleeder screw to keep from pushing the fluid back in the system. Some models the fluid can get push into the ABS system and mess it up.

Dealing with Ceramic rotors may also become an issue in the future as the prices come down and they need to remove weight from the future cars. They are 50% lighter than similar iron rotors.

Some say they may be affordable in the next 10 years to show up on more common cars. The way you tell if they are worn out is to weigh them.

The little things count anymore.

 

Here is a data point.
I was blaming my rotors, had them turned that seemed to fix the prob, then noticed wear on the outside of tires, good alignment, H'mm new pads are wearing kind of fast, and pulsation returning.
Then what I thought was noisy tires turned into a ROAR even at low speed. Could all of these symptoms be caused by the front wheel bearing/hubs going bad at a slow rate?