Many may remember that the GMT330 platform vehicles were supposed to be prone to warped rotors (Blazer, Bravada, etc). I have a 10 yr old Bravada with 100k mi and an 8 year old S10 P/U with 60k. Both have factory rotors. My neighbor had an '02 Blazer and his front rotors warped.

Have to wonder why some have luck with this and others do not. My '08 HHR has 15k mi and I have smooth, even braking on that one as well.

Maybe using a torque stick doesn't help, but I use one anyway.

I also "vent" the brakes on long grades or high speed stops when I have the distance (similar to slow pumping, it allows a brief cooling cycle between the pad and rotor surface). I feel this is better than constant braking from highway speeds to a stop.

And I always "bed" my pads when I replace them. Here's a brief rundown of the proper proceedure (or one of them anyway):

1) From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

2) Make a series of eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit there with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration, uneven braking, and even ruin the rotors.

3) The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.

4) After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need only a few minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still very hot.

 

I thought I'd definitely need new rotors at 82,000 kms, but they were able to machine them again.

I was surprised and my wallet was happier.

 

There are several acceptable ways to do it and yours is one. Thank you for posting.

The old S-10 Sonoma trucks also had issues but again it was not the rotors as much as it was the pads leaving deposits.

I went to a better EBC pad and bed them in and never has another issue with them They never even squeeled as many of these truck do.

Some of the better brakes come with specific instructions on how to use the brakes to get the best service. It is best to read and follow them.

Too often people buy a new car and never consider the brakes are new just as if they were just replaced and more care is needed for them than even the engines anymore during the first miles. The factory does not bed them in.

I am shocked more companies out of their own interest do not address this to the buyers better as it would improve brake perfromance, make owner happier and less warranty work.

 

I totally agree and great advice. BUT... what is one supposed to do if they do not live on a NASCAR track? Seriously, I agree with the advice, and want to do it and and tell other people to do it, but I cannot do it in anywhere except a race track around civilization. Again I do not dis-agree and that is the correct way, but there has to be a way to do it in the "real world" dontcha think? Anybody have thoughts?

 

Lets not make this overly dramatic here.

Brakes can be bedded in easily on public roads or even large parking lots.

There is not need for Bristol here. All of this can be accomplished at legal speed limits. All that is needed is a clear open road where you will not be a hazzard making a sudden stop. Everyone can do this as the roads are not that crowded. Most industrial parks after hours provide great places to do this.

 

At least where I live I cannot accelerate to 60 then come to a near stop , in Northern VA there is no such thing as a "clear open road". I am not kidding! The closest thing I can come up with here is semi-rush hour traffic, where we accelerate to 70 then stop on a dime; really true "Stop & Go" "Bumper to Bumper". I have come to think of this as "normal" ,but friends and relatives in other parts of the country think "stop & go" is driving with traffic lights every block. And again, I really do agree with the procedure, I just cannot do it and live in my environment, which explains why technicians don't even try to bed the pads here, they just make sure the pedal is not soft.

 

I have been to and know the area. If you want to take care of this there are plenty of places to do it. Heck in all the places I have been I could do it in all but mid town New York.

#1 you are not going to do this on the interstate. Only a fool would do this on I 95.

A quick check of Google Eath shows there are many county roads with limited access in areas outside the town of Fredricksburg that you could do this on. Your population density is no worse than where I most others here live. Many of us are not way out in the middle of no where.

Like I said a Industrial park area where after 5 PM most people are gone or other limited access road will work fine. I could even be done in a large parking lot or long driveway or on ramp. Just look around and use a little common sense and you will find a place near by.

Also think about doing this at 11 PM or 6 AM as often the roads are more open and less people around. Sunday morining are great time too.

You are not drag racing here and you do not have to get all crazy. The point is to get the heat into the brakes and coat the rotors even so the deposits do not build up. If you can get to 60 MHP fine but if not a little less speed will do as long as you get the brakes up to temp.

The reason most mechanics do not do this is they are on flat rate and if the pedal it up and the car stops the job is done. If there is issues it is later and seldom to they get the blame. Many of the mechanic I know that to it correctly seldom have to leave the shop and they can do the job on the property.

If you can't find a place take it to a shop and I am sure they can do it for you if you do not feel comfortable doing it.

 

Note there is more than one recomended way to seat the brakes.

Here is Bendix recomendation that could be done in any neighborhood safely.

30/30/30 Burnish Procedure

Perfrom 30 stops from 30 MPH with 30 second cooling times between stops. These stops will be performed at a decclerating rate of 12 feet per second or less. This means it should be a gentle easy stop.

The 30/30/30 Burnish beds the pads and shoes into the rotor or drums. It also deposits the necessary friction trasfer to the rotors and drums for optimum brake perfromance.

Following this procedure also assures that your customer will have excellent brake performance from the first time he or she drives the car after service had been performed. You should not depend on your customer to break in the brake job. The only way to asure that is done correctly is to incorporate it into your brake job test drive.

This is what Bendix recomends and it can be done nearly anywhere safely.

Like I stated there are more than one acceptable way to seat the pads and rotors. The key it to get heat in and material coating the brake surface evenly. If not you will have issues later such as the pulsing brakes many confuse with so called warp.

Seating and hub play are the two keys on good performing brakes. If you do not have both you will have judder issues.

 

That's what I was looking for!
I have been doing my own brakes for 30 years or so, so I do have some experience with not dying etc., This is the first vehicle that I have owned that would start "juddering" after being safety inspected, I think the tech forgot to use his torque wrench or maybe he blew the pads clean with water/oil in the air line. I will check that out this weekend when I rotate the tires.

 

I have changed to EBC a few years ago and they were great for some time. Now I am having the pulsation in the pedal and bad vibration when stopping from a high speed that is usually associated with warped rotors.

I was thinking maybe they are not warped but it may be the uneven wear mentioned in the TSB. If so should I just contact the deal and talk with them, or do I have to take it in.