I'm at 30K and just started to get some minor steering shake on braking. I'll just replace the rotors with drilled units.

Burbhhr, were you using Community Chevy?

 

Sounds like you have had this problem with many, many GM vehicles that you own. How many do you own? I would assume that you have at least 2 or more to base an opinion that all of them are bad.

I have 6 and have never had such problems to make me turn away and give my money to a corporation in Tokyo, especially since my neighbors have paid their hard earned money to bail out American corporations here. We want to see it come back to us. Teaching GM a lesson by not giving them a chance is like pissing on your own shoes. Maybe it's just the particular car. Just like people, you can't judge an entire group by the actions of one.

I wish you luck with your replacement vehicle.

 

I have to wonder sometimes just cause our back (drum) brakes are self adjusting.
That if people just forget to once in a while back up & give the brake pedal about 2 good pumps to adjust up the rear..

I know when I got my 08, it felt like the rear brakes were not enough help to stop my Panel. Even the drums were somewhat cool in temp. So I jacked it up & the rear wheels were very free spinning..

So I did the back-up & 2 hits on the pedal, & re-jacked it up. And then there was the tiniest bit of brake sprag on both drums...

Took a spin & she stops just fine now..

Just my .02

 

I have installed new ac delco rotors along with swapping out the ceramic pads for the gm semi metallic pads. This was 12000 miles ago and no pulsation at all since! Before i was getting pulsation every 5-7000 miles.

 

My local parts store has EBC rotors and pads. Has anyone tried these? Red or Green pads and grooved and dimpled rotors.

 

So what are the best replacements?
I am sick and tired of the Steering wheel shake.

 

I had a similar problem with another vehicle, purchased WAGNER pre-turned rotors and installed them myself, (installed new carbon metallic pads prior to the rotors no improvement), what a difference once I installed the new rotors , I have been very pleased for over a year now.

 

People not this it is the pad most often and not the rotors.

It is rare for the rotors to warp unless they are over torqued.

The pad leave embedded material on the rotor surface and this creates a sticking spot that feels like a warped rotor. It often happens from hot rotors and holding the brakes like getting off a freeway or a lot of stop and go driving.

Use a good pad and torque your wheels and they should not pulse.

 

Mine had slightly warped rotors when it was given to me, it had about 20,500 miles on it, I saw the measurement on them and can personally verify they were warped. I replaced them with NAPA Gold rotors & pads and even after having to stop quickly a couple of weeks ago in SLC on the freeway I have no problem whatsoever in about 3000 miles. I honestly think the problem is in the rotors used by GM and most any aftermarket rotors will be an improvement. I had some initial trouble with the rotors on the '95 Grand Am that the '07 HHR replaced, aftermarket rotors lasted over 60,000 miles and to my knowledge are still going. When inferior rotors made from inferior metal are used there will be issues, and when those rotors are turned the problems will surface quicker. Another issue could be a bad design causing rain to get on them or washing the car when the rotors are hot. Cold water on them then can cause warpage.

 

I bet I can warp any set of rotors you give me within 100 miles..... Clean the hub smooth, clean the back of the wheel good, best torque sticks on the market, I can still warp them.

It's the way people drive. Why are the ones on my 06 with 41K on them still good.....hummmmmm.