I totally agree with Ebritt on this one. Turn once and toss, if you have to turn them. Considering the time spent haggling over this stuff with the dealer I would even go the upgrade route.

1) replace the front pads with a good set of premium pads
2) if the rotors need replacing, go with a quality vented rotor

Of one of the best ways to avoid this problem at all is to make sure the rear brakes stay adjusted. Without the rear brakes functioning well you are seriously overworking the front brakes in the first place.

 

rdeaniii call that lady that I complained to and tell her your issue.....the Chevy # back like 2 or 3 posts Jean

 

I haven't read this thread completely but regarding the warped rotors:
I had an 06 2LT and it had the same thing. I went to the dealer and the reason is that dirt and crap builds up on the rotors and pads and unless it gets cleaned off regularly it heats things up and makes the rotors wear unevenly and warps the rotors.

There is a kit (a shield) that protects from stuff that builds ups and will help prevent warping. Ask your dealer about it when you replace the brakes or want one installed.

 

The fact is most cars today do this and the other fact is Warped rotors are not to blaime for most of it.

Cutting rotors true up or clean the rotors but does not fix the issue.

The cause of warped rotors is over torqued lugs.

Pulsation is often caused by latteral wear on the rotors not warp. Bad or poor wheel bearing can make a rotor wobble and wear uneven to create the pulse.

Also pads not seated in can leave embeded material from the newer style pads and they can leave a spot that grabs the rotor on every revolution. think of it as sliding across a kitchen floor in sock and hitting a spot where someone spilled coke.

Too few people know what the truth is including good mechanics. THis is not just an HHR issue as if you go to Acura, Toyota, Ford and other web sites it is on all of them.

Also factor in not everyone has the issue if they have pads that were bedded in or bearings that are in good condition and do not let any runout happen.

It is easier for GM to cut the rotors and let you wear the pads vs changing bearings.

Read most brake company web site on brake judder. Raybestos has a great one that has a video showing how it happens. None of them claim warped rotors as an issue.

How many here beded their brakes after they picked up their cars or after installing pads? Once I started doing this the judder has never returned in any of my cars.

 

I had my rotors cut by the dealer twice, then bought EBC rotors and pads. 2,000 miles later the vibration was horrible, so I bought new R1 Concept rotors and pads. After 2,000 miles the vibrations began again, but did not get bad until 7k. No vibration until trying to stop from 60 mph. With snow on the ground, I got lazy and took my car in to a shop I am friendly with to get the rotors taken off the car and cut. (I was originally planning on trying to have them cut on the car to take any runout in the hub into account but I cant find a shop with the machine). I watched and saw the process-the drivers side was not bad, but the passenger side was off. I used the same pads since they were in great condition. The hubs were fine, but I went over them with emory cloth to be sure. As always, wheels were torqued to 100 ft pounds. Now, I am getting the vibration at 40 mph. The mechanic took my car for a test drive and said he never saw anything as bad. They want to try plain flat rotors tomorrow morning to see what happens. I agreed, and suggested new pads if the rotors didn't help. Then, if neither work we know it is something with the hub. I fear that the rotors will solve the problem for about 2k miles, but now since a shop is responsible (and not me) I have someone to complain to that will have to figure out what is going wrong.

 

Put on NAPA premium rotors and pads.
Works every time, for good.
No, I do not work for NAPA.

 

Normally I would do the brakes myself, but since I let this shop cut the rotors to fix the shimmy, I want to let them solve the problem. If I recommend a brand and it only lasts a short time, they could blame it on the brand. If I let them do it their way with their brand parts, then when the vibration returns at 2k miles I can go back and complain.

But at this point I am really confused, as it the head mechanic their who spoke with me for at least 30 minutes, and looked up TSB's on his computer. I even speculated about debris getting in the slots and dimples causing the rotor to be out of balance but that would not explain the factory rotors going south. Nor why some HHR's dont have any brake problems, some that do are fixed by changing to slotted or flat rotors, and others like myself cant get the brakes to last. They are fine for the first 2 or 3 thousand miles, then gradually get worse. So the rotors are fine initially. All the bolts are still tight so nothing is loosening. The caliper is not binding. Pads look good. Yet, the rotor is worn unevenly. It is quite baffling.

 

Have you or the mechanic thought about the possibility that the passenger side caliper might be dragging slightly? That would heat up the rotors in no time and warp them. I had this happen on a previous car of mine. Replaced the caliper and rotors and the problem never returned.

 

Excellent point. I will ask them to check, although if it were dragging the pads would be worn more on that side and both looked even when I checked yesterday. I am bringing my dial caliper to check for runout on the hub as well as my Vernier Calipers to check the thickness of the hub as well.

When I am changing parts myself, I have no one to complain to when parts fail. Although I hate paying someone for doing things I can do, at least they warranty their work so if/when I run into problems they are covered. Still, I feel a bit ridiculous building a race car at one shop and then paying someone for removing a rotor (2 bolts) another shop .

 

Definately the way to go.