willbratz

My wife came home today and said the passenger side was soak and wet and that the AC was making a strange noise. It's clear so I believe it could be a clogged drain. Can someone point me to some photos to show me where I might look to see if the condensation drain is plugged? I sure would appreciate the help. It's a 2006 LT. I mean do I need to jack up the car, I have no idea where to look.

Thanks in advance.

sleeper

Welcome-

Butyl Patch is more likely the issue. On '06 this is usually the issue..

This link should help.. V

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ht=butyl+patch

843de

Assuming you don't have a leaking butyl patch, here's a thread on the condensate drain and where its located, you'll need to get under the vehicle to access it.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/water-dripping-onto-floor-36470/

willbratz

Should I try running the AC to see if the water is coming out?

donbrew

You should have a water puddle under the car when you run the A/C, this would indicate a working drain. Read the suggested thread and use the search tool for a bounty of info about why the "butyl patch" may be the reason for the water and the fan making noise.

The drain is sometimes as easy as sticking a screw driver into the rubber hose to un clog it. It sticks out of the firewall passenger side low.

willbratz

Thanks guys... The Mrs. took it to the dealership and they also mentioned the butyl issue, but what really concerns me is that while my wife was there she mentioned having our FoBs resynced with the car (we had to have the dealership do it because I have never been able to find out if it was possible for me to do it), and he tells my wife that they are badly soldered inside and that they don't sync the fobs, that they don't need to be synced! What???!!!! You don't sync the FoBs??!! then who sync's my FoBs, the the fairy FoB Mother??!!

I really hate when mechanics think women are stupid and don't even give them the right information. I told my wife if they werent synced, every FoB would turn every car on!! Geez, this is going to be rough. I think the diagnoses is 60.00 I'm waiting to see what they want to charge me. Right now, I'm researching this forum to see just how much of a PiTa this might be. I just did her front brakes and rotors this past Saturday, and that went smoothly, but this butyl thing is new territory for me.

843de

Unfortunately the butyl patch issue is fairly common on the 2006 and early production 2007's, the thread that sleeper posted up is a very good "How To" for dealing with the issue. It's a pain, but when its fixed, its fixed.

What sort of key fob issues are you having?

willbratz

The fobs just stopped working. I changed the battery in one and it'll beep the horn but I can't get it to unlock or auto start the car. I've looked everywhere in line but can't find where to sync it with the car.

843de

Having a communication loss between the remotes and the vehicle is rare, super rare. While there is a possibility that the module in the vehicle that receives and decodes signals from the fobs is bad, I think you may have another issue

The carbon contacts in the fobs do wear out, and with a 2006 model, yours may be worn to the point of not making reliable contact...and then the fobs are essentially useless.

There is an inexpensive fix, as opposed to buying new fobs, here's a thread on it.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/repair-key-fob-remotes-worn-out-contacts-30813/

If your fobs are bad, you need to have the replacements matched to the vehicle. It's not a DIY job, you need a scan tool to do it and the dealers are set up to do the job. Expect to pay between $30 and $75.

donbrew

The solder joints at the battery cage is probably what you are talking. Use the search tool "cold solder" it is in the how-to/tutorial section. Especially if you replaced the battery incorrectly, take the circuit board out of the case and the silicone, then gently push the old battery out and the new in, DO NOT apply any pressure to the battery cage.

"I told my wife if they werent synced, every FoB would turn every car on!"
Sorry, but the Manly Man is incorrect. The car and the fob need to be matched in order for the fob to work, The fob uses a rolling code technology so the chances of one fob working on another car at any given button press are in the neighborhood of 65,000,000,000,000 to 1. The matching is to set the algorithms to the same point. (it is in the Owner Manual)