Dontletthefactsgetintheway.com

 

The main problem with the rotors is they are for a lighter vehicle. Look at the vehicles that the stock rotors come on.

 

Would you be so kind to elaborate and provide some examples?

 

Fact is the brakes on my HHR SS are the same as what is on my 08 Malibu V6. It is at 3600 pounds and no brake issues. Same for the G6, Saturn Aura etc.

One point often missed by people with brake issues is how were the pads bedded in? Burnishing or bedding is needed anytime you put brakes on.

But often many worry about their engine when the car is new. They fail to remember the brakes also only had 4-5 miles on them when the car was picked up. Often they were never bedded in if the car as no miles on it.

When you dealer delivers the car they do not bed them in nor does the local mechanic. Many people get lucky and their normal drive takes care of it but often it does not.

Note if there was a flaw in the brake system everyone would have an issue but the fact is only some have this issue. The factor effecting it often are the initial miles driven that lead to problems later.

Note some brakes like EBC willinclued specific info on how to drive the brakes to bed them in properly. I would be shocked if many even here would know the proper way to do it.

While I did laugh at the Web joke, I post where to find this info to show the truth and try to help people find the real reason. To many people some even good mechanics don't know the truth.

Bendix addresses Brunishing and Rotor shake well on their web site along with other info as well as Willwood brakes.

On all these sites they address the material on the rotor and the thickness wear of a rotor with the cause. The only place warp is ever mentioned is in relation to improper torquing of the wheels.

Those who fail to head what the companies say to do will repeat brake problems time and time again.

 

Hummm, I ask myself the same question, what I know or what anyone can pull from the internet. How about this one from a 2 second google search.

Even Wiki....

I can go on if you like. My lugs were torqued myself to 100 ft/lbs, I mounted my wheels, so I trust me. If you don't, then please move on. I've asked a question to an issue I know that I have. So far, you are only arguing about the problem I already know I have. I have looked at my pabs and rotors since this happened, I even rotated the tires to make sure if wasn't something else.



Physics may be the same, but the quality of the material is not.

I guess I should have put hyperlinks to every brake issue I've ever commented, I guess that was my bad. But I have stated before since my move to the Atlanta area in Aug 2008, I've noticed my braking was a lot harder in many cases. This just did the final trick.

Again, arguing about an issue I already know I have.

 

[QUOTE=solman98;425248]Hummm, I ask myself the same question, what I know or what anyone can pull from the internet. How about this one from a 2 second google search.

Who needs to Google and un named quotes or Wiki [like that is accurare info all the time]....when you have well know Companies like Bendix and EBC to go to directly. I would think the MFG that sells products who do not want these issues with their product would know the proper things to do to prevent any issues with said products.

But I assume you and your un named quotes know more than Bendix, EBC and most other MFG that gives recomendations on installation and use to prevent the problem you have?

Your argument is not with me but the people who design and make brakes. They know more on this than you or I.

Just because you can put on pads does not make you an expert.

We can argue this for ever but the bottom line is I have only posted accurate info from a reliable resource. If you don't like it call them.

Somtimes you just have to ask yourself Who here has repeated brake issues and who here had a good solid pedal on similar vehicles? Why are you having issues and mine are not. What are you missing?

Would you like to explain how you bed in your brakes? No looking at wiki or Google either!!! Or did you even bed them in properly? Many people don't even know what it is. Hmm many people also have brake rotor issue....?

Believe what you want but till you change or do something your missing you will have the same issue again and again..

Note EBC has a material on them that help bed in the brakes. If you follow their instructions it may solve your issue.

At this point I will let my recomend sources for info on this topic speak for themselves and hope they will help someone here. We both are not getting anywhere with this as it is.

I hope someday you figure out why you are having you brake issue.

 

[QUOTE=hyperv6;425267]I have reasons for getting my research from "other" that places like Bendix and such. Why, well they are there to sell you a product. I'd rather get unbiased information. Forums such as these are "usually" a good place to get unbiased information. No, I'm not an expert, but I don know how to season a set of rotors and break in pads. After all, I'm at over 42K miles on this one, so it's a not new. I've only had to replace three sets of rotors in the over 1,000,000 miles I've driven, all for being out of tolerance, so I think I do have a clue on what I'm doing.

I asked for information on replacement parts for those that have had to replace similiar parts on an HHR. Since I do know what the issue is. I'd rather replace than turn at this mileage.

 

Wiki? You can't be serious.

No need for hyperlinks, its just that you made some statements that were a bit confusing and conflicting. You have since cleared that up.

And I don't think anyone ever said you should cut them instead of replacing them. I've said all along that its the use of cheap materials and its better just to put good quality replacements on. You, me, and HyperV6 all have a lot of years experience and a lot of knowledge. We only differ in our assessment of what is actually causing the pulsating, and that's what most of this has been about.

 

Just what came up on that 2 second search.

If we trusted what we found on vendors web sites, we would all be running turbonators and using splitfires.

 

Yep!....Bendix is a real snake oil company. With the way they do business they may only be around another 100 years.