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no crank after tranni mount change in SS

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Old 08-29-2024, 11:49 AM
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no crank after tranni mount change in SS

Okay, this is a strange one. I have a 2010 HHR SS. It has 160,000 miles on it and way due for motor/transmission mount changes. Changed the engine/passenger side, then the front, and next the transmission driver's side. For me, I needed to remove the fuse box, ECM, 3 hot/red cables on the left side of fuse box, and holder to get to the top bolts. Maybe there's a better way, but it never came to me. So, I "semi-removed" it to get my bear paws to the top 3 bolts. Lowered the engine/tranny just enough to remove it from its hole and replace the new one. Everything went well. I then reinstalled all the cables back underneath, fuse holder back in, 3 cables (two in front, one in back), bolted back down everything, reinstalled the two modules on the front of the box(I think one is the ECM). Plugged the cords back in with the levers on them. Everything looked like original. Pretty straight forward. Unplug. Plug back in. even checked all the fuses n modules to insure they were plugged in fully. Nope. Went in to start it and and everything works, i.e. radio, A/C blower, dash lights, etc; but no crank. Is there some secret reset after unplugging the module with 2 cables? Where did I mess up? What am I missing? Thanks.
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Old 08-29-2024, 12:27 PM
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I’m thinking you need to tighten those 4 , 7 mm bolts tighter


These 4 bolts, ^^^^^ Note the left upper wire is s for the electric power steering, just 1 wire. And under that red cover are 2 wires 1 from the battery, 1 to tge starter.
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Old 08-29-2024, 01:59 PM
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You removed the ECM. I wouldn't think you'd need to do a relearn with the same key and ECM, but it's worth a try. If you have an automatic, I'm not sure what differences there are in the procedure. Looks like the difference is just ignore the part about the clutch pedal. I've also seen it stated not to try to start until the third time. The 5 seconds off in between attempts is important.

How do I perform a security relearn?
For the seed key relearn, this is the procedure:
You can open and close the door- It doesn't matter. You will need to get in and out since you need to push in the clutch.


1. Depress the clutch and try to start the car. If it does not turn over, let off, but leave the key in the run position. The security light should be lit up on the dash.
2. Wait 10 minutes(you can open the door and get out). The security light on the dash will turn off after 10 minutes.
3. Turn the key off for 5 seconds, then depress the clutch and try to start the car. If it does not turn over, let off, but leave the key in the run position. The security light should be lit up on the dash.
4. Wait 10 minutes(you can open the door and get out). The security light on the dash will turn off after 10 minutes.
5. Turn the key off for 5 seconds, then depress the clutch and try to start the car. If it does not turn over, let off, but leave the key in the run position. The security light should be lit up on the dash.
6. Wait 10 minutes(you can open the door and get out). The security light on the dash will turn off after 10 minutes.
7. Turn the key off for 5 seconds, then depress the clutch and try to start the car. The car should start on this attempt.
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Old 08-29-2024, 07:37 PM
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Just be the third this week and tighten the bolts. Especially the ones near the start relay.
It's not like you are the first with the identical problem.

just disconnecting the computers won't do anything, if the power was off. Putting new one in is different.
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Old 09-07-2024, 12:55 PM
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Sorry for the delay. I work 14 hours a day, 7days a week. Well, I finally got to applying the suggestions. Checked the bolts using my 1/4" driver torque setting 1. Brass inserts strip out easily. Did the alarm reset. Still no start. Then I talked with 2 other HHR owners that had this same issue. They just took it back apart and reinstalled. Well, being a little OCD, (wife says a lot) I disconnected everything again. I then, cleaned terminals on fuses and relays with 1200 grit, sprayed with contact cleaner, and a small film of dielectric grease, checked each with meter, sprayed sockets, and reinstalled. Used same setting on 1/4" driver torque of 1. Cleaned both terminals and 3 wires going to fuse box, sprayed with contact cleaner, and used dielectric grease. Finally, did the same to the starter connections. Got in, cranked, and ta da, WE MAKE FIRE. Just would be nice to know what it was for the next person(s). But when all is said and done, my HHR SS is back on the road and making my daily1 hour commute a blast. Yeah, one way. Again, thanks for the help. One of the essentials to owning an HHR is this site.
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Old 09-07-2024, 01:05 PM
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Glad you got it figured out, the take away is clean and dielectric grease the fuse box the first time you put it back together. For future readers , pay attention now. This will save you time and money, we see it several times a month, right Donbrew and RJ? FMG ?
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Old 09-07-2024, 01:59 PM
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Yep, those fuse block bolts are the most common electrical issue! Tight is not tight enough!
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Old 09-07-2024, 02:28 PM
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Gorilla tight!!

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