SSROADSTER

The SS has been running good and then that so good, have had code P2261(Turbicharger Bypass Valve Stuck closed) a number of times, but have cleared the code and it seems to eliminate for the time being.....Just got back from working on the other machine and stopped to get gas, when I restarted the SS, check engine light came on and "Reduced Engine Power" appeared, first time that has happened, shut off the engine , restarted, that message disappeared, but CEL still was on. Checked the codes and found that I set
P0234 (Turbocharger Engine Overboost) for the first time, and I did have boost on the way home from getting gas.

Looked up the codes and found this:
"Condition
Some customers may comment that the SES light is on. Upon inspection, you may find DTC P0299 (Turbocharger Engine Underboost) or P0234 (Turbocharger Engine Overboost) set.

Cause
This condition may be caused by a mis-adjusted wastegate.

Correction
Note: The wastegate adjustment is sometimes a very fine process. When adjusting the wastegate, only small adjustments should be made. Loosen one nut at a time and only adjust the nut one turn at a time; then tighten the other nut against the shaft and test drive to verify. This may have to be performed several times to achieve the desired boost level. To ensure proper adjustment, the vehicle should be at full operating temperature when testing. The vehicle will be very hot and may need to cool between adjustments. Too large of an adjustment can cause repeat DTCs.

Adjust the turbocharger wastegate. Refer to Turbocharger Wastegate Actuator Adjustment in SI.

Troubleshooting Tips for DTC P0299 - Turbocharger Engine Underboost
To increase boost, adjust the nuts (in) towards the actuator; in essence making the shaft shorter.

Troubleshooting Tips for DTC P0234 - Turbocharger Engine Overboost
To reduce boost, adjust the nuts (out) towards the end of the shaft; in essence making the shaft longer. "

Is this the part where some of us have replaced the spring??? If so I made sure those nuts were tight when I changed over miles ago, it seems like I need to back off on those nuts....am I right in assuming this.

also had read the thread where some of you were having the P2261 code set and spmething about get certain wires soldered, can you explain further.

BTW the SS now has 51000 miles plus and just turned 2 last month.
thanks for any info............................................To m

SSROADSTER

the following text is based on TOTAL ASSUMPTIONSand not fact, so take it as it is and nothing more. With that being said here are my conclusions for my recent codes and loss of boost on different occassions.

I do have the Hahn BSR tune, and in the beginning I was getting up to 25 lbs of boost or slightly more, now the highest I get is 23 lbs of boost when all is well,and that is when I hit passing gear, but then again, not having my foot into it @ WOT from a stop as much as before. I need to do more WOT testing from a standstill
In the past I have noticed that when I have had boost problems, a tighten of the clamps would seem to cure the issue. And of course the bottom clamp coming out of the IC on the driver's side was always a PIA to get to and tighten. So in the pic below, you can see that I rearranged the T-clamp so that now all I need to do is open the hood, get my socket and rachet, use my left hand to slide down and tighten. So much easier. Since I did this on Saturday, the SS is running just fine. Now I am not saying that this the answer to the two codes that I have seen, but it sure has helped. I don't think I was getting that clamp as tight as it needed to be, but now it is a breeze to adjust.


My thoughts on the P2261 code is that if you are feathering the accelerator and only getting partial boost and then letting off, as opposed to hitting the passing gear completely, this may have the valve open and close in such a way as to get stuck if done repeatly, because you are not totaly following through in your intent.
My thoughts on the P0234 code, is that after reading further on how to check the vacuum tanks and connections for leaks, leads me to believe that any air connection not fully tighen may cause this condition.
Now looking at the A/C compressor and seeing how the connector is very close to it, it is understandable to see that upon the torque of the engine that there could be something that would hit or press up on the connector to cause a problem, as I have heard a clang on occassion, so that needs to be looked into further.

So far so good, no codes, but I wil test more to see if the codes come back again. As of now the BOOST IS GOOD.......I am happy......Tom

SSROADSTER

since the weekend, I have been trying everything possible to set the codes and lose boost on the SS to recreate the previous conditions. last night on the way home, did at least a dozen partial and WOT passing gear maneuvers, and yesterday and this morning, pulled two hole shots at the light trying to torque the engine as much as possible. result........nothing.
I will continue trying and see what happens. Today's assumption is that I also used a long screwdriver to lightly try to move the connector away from the A/C compressor on Saturday, and also tried to make sure that no wires, cables or anything else was near any moving parts.
I also still believe that making sure that the IC tube is tighten securely at the IC is a big plus. My boost still pegs @ 23lbs, and I can still light up the tires at partial throttle, which I haven't done as much as before. I have also made RH turns from a stop and hit it a bit, just to torque the engine as much as possible along with body movement in a different direction to achieve the previous outcome, but no luck
Then of course if I do set a code in the future, or lose boost, then these assumptions are just what they are....assumptions......

steven&cat

Sounds like a person can up the boost with out spending hundreds on the stage 1 kit??????

pitbull76

Any change you make to that without a stage kit will be learned-down. The computer figures out that it is boosting higher than it should and will compensate. Also if you mess with it too much it will set codes and the car will not run right.

steven&cat

Those bastids have it rigged where your going to pay them to get anything no mater what....They should have just made all SS's run to there full potential right out of the box, and just added the cost to the price.

JeramieJJ

If it was your company, you sure wouldn't want to slap a 5yr/100K warranty on something like that. Talk about losing your shirt and folding in a year....

steven&cat

Are you saying they cancel your warranty after they install the upgrade?

ChevyMgr

No, warranty is retained.

steven&cat

Yes,, thought so. I do have a question for you though. I am assuming you work at a dealer...Have you driven a malibu, or impala with the 4 banger?, If so, do they get around ok? Looks like a lot of car for a 4.