Time for new front brake pads. Where to go?
11-15-2012, 01:53 PM
#12
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Join Date: 07-05-2008
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 5,464
I have used both and have my own opinion.
First off the rotor issue is not a warp there are other factors that cause the pulse. Read the threads on Rotor thickness variation including the The service bulletins on it. Also read the The proper way to seat and bed the pads to prevent the pad material from sticking to the rotors.
The reason many never fix their issue is they are not addressing the real problem.
Calipers already float so even if a rotor was warped it would move with rotor.
11-15-2012, 03:32 PM
#13
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Join Date: 11-20-2006
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 931
I still say it depends. I noticed no degradation in stopping with the "cheap" pads for everyday use. My point is if you are going to abuse them like many high-speed stops in a short period of time, then they may fade and not work as well as a higher cost pad. With the 4-wheel disks in this car, it can stop quick. Do whatever makes you most comfortable.
11-15-2012, 08:03 PM
#15
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Join Date: 07-05-2008
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 5,464
The key to good pads are the quality of materials in them. Just because they may say Ceramic or Kevlar does not tell you how much of the material is ceramic or Kevlar. There is no rule that says what percentage of the pad has to hold of the material to make the claim.
Cheaper pads tend to have more cheap metals or cheap carbon fillers. Even some non cheap pads have a lot of cheap carbon fillers. The cheap carbon keep production cost down and make the pads more profitable. High carbon content also makes your wheels black with a lot of dust too.
Most people never reach the full ability of their pads as in the performance aspect. Now many of us do reach the wear and dust limits of the cheaper pads.
The key to any pads high performance is how fast the material transfers heat. The hotter the pad the poorer the performance. Now some cheaper pads may stop as fast as some othe pads but you will pay the price in wear and dust. Carbon can transfer heat well but it also wears faster and is dirty.
If you don't mind less miles and dirty wheels there are many well performing cheap pads.
The greatest issue today is that most people need to catch up with modern pads. Things have changed as well as some braking systems. Too many fail to understand it is more than just changing pads anymore. Not long ago there was little more than organic pads and Metalic. Also with the old systems bedding them is was not as much of an issue as they are today as back then you drug the pads on the rotors and left the hub bearing lose to kick the pads back. Today the pads pull back and the last thing you want is a loose hub bearing or the pads bouncing off the rotors when not engaged.
The key is to buy the pad that will make you the most happy. Often the average SS owner wants good stopping and less dust. The Red EBC are about as good for this as you will find. There are several others that will do the same. Now if you can live with more dust some of the cheaper brands will work fine for you too. You may get less miles too but you also paid less. They are not bad pads but they also offer less than the others in some areas.
Now if you are racing that is another whole deal all together. These pads will not work well cold and will really transfer heat and often will cool too much under light driving making for poor stopping. They also will eat up many rotors but in racing most will toss rotors after one race anyways. EBC yellow pads are a good example of this as are many other high end racing pads.
The mid range heat pads then to give the best all around performance. Most are only offered as a moderate priced pad. It goes back to the old saying you get what you pay for. Some cheap cars may be as fast as some expensive sports cars but the fact is the sports car usally has less compromise in its performance over the long run.
Cheaper pads tend to have more cheap metals or cheap carbon fillers. Even some non cheap pads have a lot of cheap carbon fillers. The cheap carbon keep production cost down and make the pads more profitable. High carbon content also makes your wheels black with a lot of dust too.
Most people never reach the full ability of their pads as in the performance aspect. Now many of us do reach the wear and dust limits of the cheaper pads.
The key to any pads high performance is how fast the material transfers heat. The hotter the pad the poorer the performance. Now some cheaper pads may stop as fast as some othe pads but you will pay the price in wear and dust. Carbon can transfer heat well but it also wears faster and is dirty.
If you don't mind less miles and dirty wheels there are many well performing cheap pads.
The greatest issue today is that most people need to catch up with modern pads. Things have changed as well as some braking systems. Too many fail to understand it is more than just changing pads anymore. Not long ago there was little more than organic pads and Metalic. Also with the old systems bedding them is was not as much of an issue as they are today as back then you drug the pads on the rotors and left the hub bearing lose to kick the pads back. Today the pads pull back and the last thing you want is a loose hub bearing or the pads bouncing off the rotors when not engaged.
The key is to buy the pad that will make you the most happy. Often the average SS owner wants good stopping and less dust. The Red EBC are about as good for this as you will find. There are several others that will do the same. Now if you can live with more dust some of the cheaper brands will work fine for you too. You may get less miles too but you also paid less. They are not bad pads but they also offer less than the others in some areas.
Now if you are racing that is another whole deal all together. These pads will not work well cold and will really transfer heat and often will cool too much under light driving making for poor stopping. They also will eat up many rotors but in racing most will toss rotors after one race anyways. EBC yellow pads are a good example of this as are many other high end racing pads.
The mid range heat pads then to give the best all around performance. Most are only offered as a moderate priced pad. It goes back to the old saying you get what you pay for. Some cheap cars may be as fast as some expensive sports cars but the fact is the sports car usally has less compromise in its performance over the long run.
11-16-2012, 07:15 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-26-2011
Location: Elburn, IL
Posts: 122
Hyper6 is correct when he says I want good stopping with less dust. I do not drive my car like a race car. Just a daily driver with some pep now and again. I have a little one now too (5 months) so I've slowed down even more. My biggest concern is the dust and I hate how dirty my new wheels get!
I set up an appointment with the local Chevy dealer. They have a special for $75 installed for ceramic pads. Thought I'd try them out and report back.
Thanks to everyone for your advice!!
Brian
I set up an appointment with the local Chevy dealer. They have a special for $75 installed for ceramic pads. Thought I'd try them out and report back.
Thanks to everyone for your advice!!
Brian
11-16-2012, 07:47 PM
#18
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Join Date: 07-05-2008
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 5,464
I have noted the pads on my new Terrain must be of a better material. They will haul the 4,000 pound vehicle down in a very short distance with little fade. Also there is very little dust.
They look as they may be a ceramic pad but I am not sure. The Rotors are also very large on the Terrain.
They look as they may be a ceramic pad but I am not sure. The Rotors are also very large on the Terrain.
11-21-2012, 11:01 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: 06-26-2011
Location: Elburn, IL
Posts: 122
The new ceramic pads from GM seem fine. I was a bit bummed when I needed new rotors at only 36k miles. I asked if they were covered under my extended warranty, but they said no. Oh well, hopefully I see less brake dust from these pads.
11-22-2012, 07:24 AM
#20
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Join Date: 07-05-2008
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 5,464
Don't know about the GM pads, let us know how they do.
Anymore I do not keep rotors. I toss them at each brake change. Stock Bendix rotors are not much and it helps I get a discount, it's a no brainer when I can do 4 Bendix for around $50.
To be honest it was not all that long ago that most cars needed front brakes at 30,000 miles unless you did a lot of highway miles. It is amazing how some systems are really updated with the new ABS systems being used to help give more brake life.
Anymore I do not keep rotors. I toss them at each brake change. Stock Bendix rotors are not much and it helps I get a discount, it's a no brainer when I can do 4 Bendix for around $50.
To be honest it was not all that long ago that most cars needed front brakes at 30,000 miles unless you did a lot of highway miles. It is amazing how some systems are really updated with the new ABS systems being used to help give more brake life.